Wearing Renfrew Top

We had a great visit with family yesterday.  It was good to see my cousins, their spouses and children. I did wear my new top-Sewaholic's Renfrew Top.  The knit fabric is a little thinner and a little more clingy than I had anticipated; yet it wore well and I like the fit.

On me the top looked a little more like a tunic and I may shorten the next one.  I did like the look of the top as a tunic.  Here are two shots of the top that DH took before we left the house.

I have another fabric picked out for the next top.  But first will make the Vogue top, fabric has been cut out and is ready to sew.

Holiday Mood

I am calling this my Holiday Mood top.  This is the completed Renfrew top.  The knit fabric is from Mood and my intention is to wear it for a holiday event with family members today, thus Holiday Mood.

Holiday Mood

This is a lovely knit fabric, super easy to work with and wish I had purchased more.  The wrong side of the fabric, IMHO, I think could be a top as well.  I remember making a knit top many years ago that was a gold metallic and it made me itch where the metallic threads would touch my skin.  Metallic knits have come a long way baby!

Here is a close up of the collar. I wish I had draped the left side better.

And this is the waistline cuff, though it really sits at the hips; and the cuffs for the sleeves.  You can make this without using the cuffs for a design change.  I liked the look of them.

I will try to get my photographer to take photos before we visit family.

Renfrew Top and Mood Fabric

I spent last evening making pattern adjustments to the Renfrew Pattern.  I made my usual FBA, swayback, upper round back, forward shoulder adjustment.  With the FBA I eliminated the resulting dart using a FBA method I learned from Debbie Cook's FBA tutorial.

I am going to make the cowl neck top.  The fabric is a gold metallic type knit fabric from Mood Fabrics.  It really feels soft to the touch and the metallic threads are not scratchy as I remember another metallic knit I sewed many, many years ago.  The knit color below looks a little darker than the actual fabric.  The wrong side is a flat color and has more black showing.  I think either side could be used as the right side.

The fabric had been previously washed.  I was able to cut out the fabric this AM and set up both serger and sewing machine to sew.  Updates later.

New Patterns

In a previous post, I mentioned that I made some recent pattern purchases.  I finally got around to taking photos of them.  Two of the patterns are from Sewaholic Patterns; one is the Renfrew Knit Top and the other is a new release, the Cordova, which is zipped front jacket with peplum.

The other patterns were purchased during the recent Club BMV sale and all were Vogue patterns:

Mixed feelings

I am almost finished with the Butterick top (pictured in the upper side bar) and I have very mixed feelings about the top.  It will probably become one of those tops that I will wear mostly around the house.  We will see after I add the collar.

In previous post I mentioned that this is a short top!  I added an inch to the length and believe me it is still a short top.  You can see this with the model; and even pin fitting the top I thought that an inch addition would be sufficient.  With that an extra inch it comes just, I mean just, to the bottom of the waist band on my jeans.

There is nothing but scraps left over from cutting out the pattern, so not any extra to use creatively to lengthened this top.  I think it will look okay with a tank top underneath that is longer than this top.  These are just the mixed thoughts I have in wanting to make this top work.

The sleeves are very full from elbow down and I knew that they would be again from the view on the pattern envelope.  I wasn't sure how I would like them and I am pretty sure I don't.  I plan to mark from elbow down eliminating some of the fullness in that area. They are also very long and I always have to reduce sleeve length about an inch to 1 1/2 inches.  Even reducing the length they are still long.

I also like the asymmetrical top included in this pattern and plan to give that a try also.  I do know that I will raise that neckline and perhaps reduce the width of it as well.  I can tell from the current top before attaching the collar that it is wider and lower than I would wear it if it did not have the collar.

A little sewing, a litte of this and that.

Yesterday was the annual holiday celebration for our local ASG chapter.  As always it was good food and good fun.  When the event was over it was household shopping and then home to make dinner.

Late Saturday evening I began sewing the Boat-neck top from Pamela's Pattern.  I did not get very far with this.  Today was not much sewing going on as housecleaning was in order for an expected delivery of a washer and dryer, Santa's gift to DH and me.  To make a long story short, the appliances were too large to get into our basement as the only entrance is through the inside of the house and house was built in 1949.  DH did not measure twice and cut once!!!  So back to Lowe's to pick out a different set and the folks there were so accommodating and great to work with on this.  They had to order the set as I wanted a chrome color.  So Santa will come back next weekend.  And no extra cleaning on my part will be necessary.  DH measured and measured some more to be sure these appliances will fit through all doors.

Upon returning from Lowe's I decided to attach the sleeves to the top and then sew up the side seams.  Done!  Only thing left is to set up the cover stitch machine to hem the sleeves and the top.  That will have to wait as I just simply ran out of steam.

Here's a not so great photo of the top laying on the sewing machine bed.  It was taken with my Samsung Galaxy Player.

The fabric is much prettier than this photo and is unusual as well.  I will model it later when finished.  There is still an issue with folds forming at the bust area even with an added dart.  I need to figure that out.  Not bad, just noticeable to me as a sewist.

Latest fabric acquisitions

After going through my knit fabric collection to make test garments last week, I found it somewhat lacking in appropriate knits for the season.  I had seen some knits on several sites.  I obsessed over a couple at EOS and know if I don’t order quickly sometimes, others beat me to the purchase. 

I ordered two knits from EOS.  One is a Ponte knit called Bittersweet; it is somewhat what I would call a pumpkin color.

The other knit is an ITY knit in a black, charcoal and cream floral print. 

The next four knits are from Vogue Fabrics.  Two are from the current Winter 2012 Fabric Swatch and two were in the prior swatch.  The two floral fabrics are double knit; the  rust colored fabric is a knit crepe and the steel gray is a bamboo knit.  I have yet  to try bamboo knit but understand that it does shrink a lot. 

Pamela's Pattern perfected!

I thoroughly reviewed the fitting issues with the tested boatneck top.  I realized that I needed to align what becomes the shoulder seam with the shoulder point at the top of the arm on the base pattern and not what I had done previously.  In doing that the armholes lined up correctly and this allowed for the forward shoulder adjustments made on the base pattern.

Once I did that, I tested a second top from a lighter weight knit fabric that I had purchased from Fabric.com several years ago.
I never liked the color or the look of the fabric once I got it. It is has been in stash waiting for the right moment and it was just enough to make the front and back test garment.   It worked well for the test garment and after making the correct shoulder alignment, I have found a perfect boatneck top for me!!!







I cut out another top this AM using fabric acquired from Gorgeous Fabrics several years ago. (Sorry no photo of the fabric at this time.)  It is an unusual looking knit with a someone ombre look to it yet all the color shading is on the diagonal.  It goes well with a recent crepe fabric purchase that will become a skirt.  I have enough of this knit fabric to make several more tops, or a skirt, or perhaps dress.  The back of this knit could be used as the right side as well.

I had planned to use another fabric but decided that the boatneck was not the right style for this fabric.  It will become a top eventually.  Perhaps better as a cowl neck.

I also have another pattern waiting to be cut out and pin fitted to make another knit top, more of sweater knit.  This knit has been around for over 12 years; it is now aged enough to make a casual knit top using this Butterick pattern. I purchased the pattern to make the one the model is wearing; my fabric is a lot like the color of the cowl neck tunic and somewhat thicker.   The tunic pattern is very long and would need to be shorter for me.  The short version is not long enough.  I am a long waisted, short/petite person.  The length from waist to hip on me is very short.  So the shorter version I would have to lengthen by at least 1-2 inches for it to fall just below my waistline.  I am not sure that the boxy look is right for me and will have to see what  works best after pin fitting the pattern.

More updates later.

From cowl to boatneck

I made Pamela's Pattern #104 top earlier this year.  I have the fit pretty much the way I like it.  As always there are some tweaks I could make.  I decided to trim out some of the fullness in the waist and hip areas.  I decided to try #107 that has some different necklines--ballet, square, boat and funnel.

I decided to try the boatneck.  I like this look but I have not always had good fit when I have made a Burda and Jalie boatneck style pattern.  I have even had issues with Pattern Master and drafting one using that software program.

I decided to test the pattern using some fabric that would not offend my sensibilities if it did not fit the way I wanted.  Per instructions you use your basic pattern from #104 and overlay the neckline template over this aligning at the shoulder and center front.  Because I made some additional adjustments to the base pattern at the shoulder, I think this created a slight fitting issue.  I also made an unnecessary dart adjustment when sewing the test garment that resulted in a poor fit through the bust area.

The knit I used was also thicker than the knit I used for my previous two tops.  This also changes the fit.  I had taken a horizontal tuck in the base pattern that I think now is too deep; at least it was with this test garment and again some of the issue may be with the beefier knit used.  The real positive though is that the neckline fits very well!!!!  With all of the known issues now,  I plan to tackle a new draft of the the pattern.

I also plan to cut out another Vogue 9771 top using fabric acquired a year ago from Waechter's.  I do love the look of that pattern and the fit is now perfected.

Updates later.

V9771

I was able to make adjustments to this pattern and cut out the fabric late afternoon into early evening.  I am making view A which is the short sleeve version. I had enough to make the long sleeve version; I decided that the short sleeve would be more usable for several seasons.  This is another rayon challis fabric I purchased from Fabric Mart a month or two ago.  Yesterday's wadder was from fabric from FM purchased at the same time.

Below is a photo of the fabric I used.  It is black and white with small gray dots.  I have had this pattern for a very long time and decided it had aged well enough.  The front and back are cut on the bias.  I only made a sway back adjustment.  The finished bust measurements seemed to indicate that a FBA will not be needed.

Tomorrow I will sew this up in between preparing some of the Thanksgiving meal for Thursday.  I have plans for making another Pamela's Pattern Top using either a funnel neck or a boat neck.  I made a few tweaks to this pattern this AM.  The fabric is a beautiful knit I purchased from Les Fabrique in Charlottesville several years ago.  It too has now aged enough to be use.  I have plans for a third top using a knit purchased over 12 years ago while living in Florida.  I plan to use a Butterick pattern purchased last year.  

More show and tell soon.

Cleaning up and moving on

I decided that I really needed to clean up the sewing room and get rid of a lot of stuff that was just laying around; I also vacuumed up all the debris on the floor.  I then sorted through a huge bag of patterns that really needed to be put away.

I have a fabric storage room-I like the sound of that- but let me clarify that the room stores other stuff as well such as Christmas ornaments and the like.  Plus I have my grandmother's sewing machine and sewing table in this room also.  The bulk of it is plastic containers of fabric.  I am periodically traveling from sewing room which is at one end of the house to the storage room which is at the other end of the house.

I had pulled a lot of fabric for potential sewing projects for the fall and winter.  There were just too many in the room and I decided to cull through the stack of fabric and put it back in storage.

So now that patterns are put up, excess fabric out of the way and floor vacuumed I proceeded to put out top/blouse patterns and fabric to sew up over the next few days.

I will give the Alma Blouse a try later on.  Let me also state that the pattern is a good one and the issue with the pattern is operator error not the pattern.

I will share with you later what I plan to work on next.  Off to the sewing room now.

Not successful!

Well my first attempt in making the Alma blouse has not been successful.  I did not trust my instincts when it came to selecting the size I should use.  I know how Vogue, Butterick and Simplicity are going to fit and can almost make my usual fitting adjustments with out much to do.

I did not trust the sizing and should have because I went with the above pattern size and the top was too large.  I tried to make fitting adjustments; with each one I made it seemed to get worse not better.

The fabric was somewhat off grain as well and I thought I had made the right adjustments to straighten it out.  Selecting the wrong size, wonky fabric coupled with growing frustration,  I decided to walk away from this project at this time.  I have plenty others to work on.

V8773 Completed

I was able to finished the navy blue Vogue skirt.  Here are a few photos of the completed skirt.  Pressing still needed.  The first one is lightened version so you can see the various front seams.

 Another view of the front.

 I lined the skirt using the skirt pattern for the lining.  The waistline is faced using grosgrain ribbon.

 This is the back view of the skirt.

 I lightened this view so you can see the center front split and lining is peaking through.

V8603 Complete and the Inspiration

I saved this skirt photo many many months ago.  I knew I wanted to make some sort of “skin” skirt. 

I also saw a skirt photo made from the same fabric that I used on someone’s blog that too was an inspiration for making a “skin” skirt.  

Here is my completed faux leather “skin” skirt, Vogue 8603.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here is a view of the back

I took these photos while actually getting dressed for work the other morning.  I plan to wear the skirt with brown opaque hose and brown top and shoes.

Next up is another Magic Pencil Skirt.

Skirt needs hemming

Here is a not so good photo of V8603 skirt that is basically complete except for the hemming. This was taken with my Samsung Galaxy Player.  DH just bought this for me and besides just playing music, I can take photos, send me email, etc.  So not too bad of a photo.

It looks a little more shiny than it is in "real" time.

This fit very well.  I used 18 at the waist tapering to 16 at hip line.  I ended up taking 3/4 inch seams at waist to hip.

The pattern calls for a lining; this fabric has a thick knit type backing and decided not to line.  I used Teflon foot for most of the sewing; I inserted an invisible zipper.  I just need to hem and I am ready to start another skirt project.  More photos later.

Skirt progress

I got a little bit of sewing time in this evening.  All skirt pieces were serge finished and the center and side front pieces were sewn together.  I had to pick up some zippers at Jo Ann's today.  I needed one for this skirt and pressed the zipper tape getting it ready for attaching next.

The fabric being faux leather and thickish I am using a quilting needle size 14 and a Teflon foot.  Seems to be working well.  This is a very simple skirt pattern and should be able to complete it tomorrow.

I think my next skirt will be blue.  I have several blue fabrics, varying shades of blue as well as varying fabric type.  Once I complete the Carnival of Skirts I am going to make some jackets.  I have some lovely fabrics acquired recently and over several years that I pulled out for fall/winter sewing.  Several are varying shades of blue prints.

More later.

Small Progress

I had only a short time to sew this afternoon.  Thus far the darts are sewn on the front bodice.  I interfaced the front and back facings and then attached to the front and back neckband at the neckline.  Before attaching at neckline you have to gather the front neckband between notches and line up with notices on the facing.

When you have only a 1/4 inch seam allowance this gets to be a little fiddly and the knit I am using is fiddly  also.  All turned out well though and I was pleased with that. 

The next step is to gather the bottom edge of the front neckband and match the notches to the facing.  The instructions have you attach to the neckline in two steps.  Sometimes this can be done by attaching the neckband to the facing by sewing or serging and then attach all to neckline.  I may use their instructions as it is important to get the gathers aligning in the center of the front neckline.

Hopefully will sew a little more this later tonight.  DH fell at work yesterday and has fractured a rib, so having to "babysit" some with him.  I know that it is painful but his pain tolerance level is about -5!  

More updates later.

Kwik Sew top

I was able to cut out the fabric for this KS top. This was a difficult task as the knit fabric was rather "clingy" and rather lightweight.  It also seemed off grain some.  I had just enough fabric to cut out all the pieces and ended up with the sleeves being just above the elbow.

The sewing machine and serger are threaded and ready to go.  That though was the end of my sewing for the day.  I had to run some errands and then my neck/shoulder started hurting and had to give it a rest.  I think the extreme change in weather was a factor.  I did make an appointment with my doctor as I think it may be time for a MRI.

I did pull out some more patterns that I plan to use for more tops/blouses.    Last month was all about skirts.

Simplicity 2451

The only thing left to do is hem the skirt and the lining!  I took some photos this evening of the skirt

This is the completed skirt except for the hem.

This is closer look of the yoke and side pockets.

I topstitched the edges of the yoke.  I did this also because it helped to keep the yoke edge in place.  I wish I had edgestitched the pockets, but didn't.

This is the lining side of the skirt.  The upper edge of the skirt needs to be pressed and I may edgestitched the top edge of the yoke.  I am pleased with the fit of the skirt and now I only need to decide on what the top should look like.

September was my month of skirts.  One I did not complete and that was the Magic Pencil Skirt.  I just did not like the knit fabric I chose to use.  I needed something with a little more body to it.

For October I am going to concentrate on tops and jackets.

Mixed prints

Let me say first and foremost I love this Vogue skirt pattern.  Mostly because I really like the fit and the uniqueness of the pattern.  My next version of this skirt will be in a solid color and with topstitching that will accent the many pieces that make up this skirt.  So far I have made it in print fabrics that do not reveal the yokes and the side front pieces.

Here is a previous post about the recent version of this skirt.

I purchased a few knit tops from J C Penney's recently and this was one I fell in love with because of the large dots on the front with back and sides being solid black.  It also came with the skinny black belt I am wearing in the photo below.  Never thinking when I purchased it that I would wear with this skirt.

Not the best photo background to use and the view is from a mirror using my iPad.   This is a semi side view.  One more shot and more of a frontal view.

I also wore a lightweight sweater in black with this as the AM was chilly turning to warm by midday.  With the sweater on someone thought this was a dress.  Now that I have tried the mix print look, I am ready to try more.