Butterick 6392

I am glad I had the sewing opportunity last week.  This is the other garment I made and wore last weekend, Butterick 6392

It was a fairly simple pattern to make, I cut size 14.  A dislike was there were not finished measurements on the pattern pieces; the only finished measurements listed on the envelope was the length.

It looked like there would be no issue with fit as the pieces looked as if there was a lot of ease.


Adjustments made were shortening the length by 1/1/2 inches; even then it was longer than I actually wanted.  I also did a swayback adjustment of 5/8. I also shortened the shoulder width by 5/8 inch.

The fabric is from Fabric Mart purchased in April 2015.

Diamond Quilted 

I fell in love with the fabric and had many ideas of how I would use it and then with change in weather I put aside for cooler weather.

When this pattern was released I knew immediately that I had the right fabric for this pattern.

This was an easy project to sew; one needs to pay attention to the marking for tie placements and right front self facing.  The biggest issue I had was the ties and turning them.  I used to have Fasturn tubes and they have gone missing.  I had another "gizmo" for turning but not a very good one.

DH took photos of me wearing this last weekend.  I lightened some of the photos so you can see the quilted design. It is a rich black fabric as you can see in the two photos below.

Here are the two side views

Left side

Right side with ties.

The sides are sewn with wrong sides together. The right side tie is sewn into the seam.  The left side tie was to be attached to the folded over self facing, the fold over stops where the left and front are attached at the V.  I opened up the seam that attaches the left to the right and inserted the tie in that seam to make it more secure.  I am not sure why the instructions would not have you do that.

By sewing the side seams on the right side of the fabric it creates what I called wings.

I truly like this pattern and the unusual design.  Not sure that I need another one, but was a pleasure to sew.

I wore this to work on Tuesday and no one really got to see this as I walked into the entrance of our building and fell on wet floor.  I sprained my ankle and have been laid up all week from this accident. I am on the mend and plan to return to work on Monday with ace bandage and foot trolley for my right foot.  Glad I got a pedicure during my vaca😇

Next project-a glimpse

Here is a glimpse of my next project--more details to follow.  Making the view on the model!
Fabric from my stash from Fabric Mart.

B6169 Wearing

I had time to take a few photos this morning and just edited them to post the finished version of the jacket.  I highly recommend this pattern.  The instructions are good; I did not use their instructions for the lining preferring to bag my linings.

I ran out of time and did not get photos of the jacket partially zipped.  This gives you an idea of the length and overall fit.

Front view zipped all the way up

Back view

Side view

I made several fitting adjustments-forward shoulder, one inch FBA using Sandra Betzina method for princess seams, shortened the sleeves by one inch, swayback adjustment of 3/4 inch, high round back adjustment of 5/8 inch.

I plan to make one or two more versions of this jacket with one being for spring.

Jacket is complete

I hope that everyone who celebrates Thanksgiving had a good one.  My DH and I spent time with friends in our hometown of Danville, VA for the holiday.  It was good to partake of great food and fellowship.  Weather was perfect for the day and spent time inside and out.

I was not able to complete my jacket to wear before Thanksgiving, it will be something new to wear to work when I return from my vaca/holiday time off.

Here are just a few glimpses of the jacket in process and me wearing.  I plan to take more photos when more appropriately dressed for the full view.

Back view-completed

Front view-completed

Wearing.

I like the jacket partially zipped the best.  When fully zipped, it feels confining.  More photos and a review to follow.

Front jacket is complete

Here is the front pieces pinned to AlmaMarie.  I used the welts but did not sew and insert the pocket pieces.  Many reviewers say the pockets are rather small.  I misplaced the pattern piece and it is lost in my sewing room somewhere.

 The zipper on the left side (right side below) is basted then sewn to middle front piece.  The right side zipper is basted (left side below).  When the lining fabric is sewn to the center front facing piece, this zipper side will be fully stitched in the sewing step.

I am loving the feel and the sewing of this fabric.  Thank you Mood Fabrics!

B6169

I made some headway with Butterick 6169,  I made all the fitting adjustments to the numerous pattern pieces.  I cut fabric and then started on the lining pieces.

I decided to go with golden color for the lining.  I pulled brown and black which is the predominate colors you see when you look at the fabric both real and in photos.  However the lining I chose brings out the golden specks in the fabric.

I started cutting out the lining pieces and have more to cut yet.

I have been sewing such easy knit tops and dresses, that I forgot how many pieces a jacket may have. Then there is the lining fabric to cut.  Nonetheless, I am excited to be sewing this pattern.  I need to update jackets in my current wardrobe.

I hope your sewing weekend was productive!

Moving on to this next

After the wadder yesterday, this AM I spent time in my sewing room looking through fabrics I pulled for fall/winter sewing that I brought into the sewing room.  I decided it is time to sew a jacket.

I use to sew jackets a lot.  Then work styles changed and I began to sew more dresses.  Now because of an ongoing vein issue with my right leg, I wear pants a lot because of having to wear a compression stocking. Thus the reason of late for making so many tops to wear with pants.  So now it is time to make some jackets to wear for the cooler weather that will go with pants.

The fabric I will use is from Mood-an Italian wool blend. Purchased in 2013.

I will make this jacket from Butterick.

I began the pattern fitting process this afternoon. So far I have the two piece sleeves adjusted for length; width is good.  More fitting to do.  Updates later.

Quick View

I completed the Butterick 6183 top. I am okay with the blouse.I have a few dislikes and some are my issues and not the pattern.  I was so focused on fitting the bust,the back, the waist, the hips that I did not focus on the shoulder and where the shoulder ended.
I don't like the insertion of the zipper as they have you do it. Next time, I will insert the zipper on the side, or adjust the back opening to a full seam and insert the zipper there .

Here are a few photos of the completed blouse.

My next project will be the Presto Top by Savage Coco. I have a red rayon slub knit that I just washed to be used for this top. This was just recently acquired from Fabric Mart. More posting and photos to follow

B6183 Progress

I only got some real sewing on Sunday.  I completed the back unit and I found an Okay zipper to use for the back zip.

Blue exposed zipper

I had a very difficult time inserting this zipper.  I love invisible zippers and can install one so quickly.  This required two passes to get it right.  I am not real happy with the bottom of it but hopefully no one will get that close to see it.

I have some fullness to take out of the back princess seams from waist to hip.  I basted the side seam after attaching the zipper and sewing the shoulder seams.  Other than that fullness the blouse fits well.  I love that I did not have to do a FBA as I was able to take advantage of the D cup front pattern without needing any extra!

Not a lot more to do and hope to do a few minutes here or there this week.

Butterick 6183

I am grateful for a long weekend!  After putting aside the Itch to Stitch top, I decided to make a woven top I had been planning to make for some time now.

I have read some reviews on Pattern Review as well as reading some blog posts also.  Most all seem to be positive and some mentioned the tight sleeves.  I cut my ususal 14 cap for the sleeve and then expanded to size 16 for bicep.

I pin fitted the pattern yesterday, made my usual adjustments-forward shoulder, upper round back adjustment, swayback adjustment.  No FBA as this pattern has cup sizes and I went with the size 16 from bust to bottom.

Here is where I stopped a little while ago

The front pieces are sewn together.  I finished the edges using my serger.  The fabric is from Vogue Fabrics purchased in May.  It is a cotton fabric with a denim look, light to medium weight.  I washed it once prior to sewing it. It presses well and was easy to cut and handle.  I sew so many knit fabrics that I forget how woven fabrics feel and sew.  When I purchased this fabric, my intent was to make a top/blouse;  this pattern was not my choice at the time.  I thought this looked like a cropped top with seaming.

I wish I had cut the center back piece with an add of a 5/8 seam allowance so I could use an invisible zipper. This pattern as it is has the back on the fold with markings to cut an opening for an exposed zipper.

More updates later.  Plan to grill hamburgers soon.

Simplicity and Butterick Pattern sale

Earlier this week I was in JoAnn's to purchase threads, zippers and such.  Simplicity patterns were on sale for $1 and Butterick and McCall's for $1.99.  I had a few patterns on my wish list and decided to take advantage of the sale.

Here's what came home with me

The Butterick patterns are ones in the new fall pattern category.  I am not overly excited about any of the new patterns, none really gave me the WOW feeling when looking at them.  Some seem like versions already released but presented with different fabrics making them to appear new.

Of those patterns the two Butterick patterns above did speak to me the most.

I have not gotten on the kimono jacket wagon yet either; it does have some appeal to me.  Decided to purchase the Simplicity version of this style.  I did like the top pattern also by Simplicity and for a $1 worth the price to buy.

I am planning some sewing this weekend, planning to complete the culotte project and then turning my thinking toward transitional sewing for season change.  Later!!!

B6216 Wearing

I had a few moments this AM while getting ready for work to take photos of the  Butterick top I posted about recently.

I still have some pooling in the back area, similar to the model on the pattern envelope.

I truly like the top and will plan to make more from this pattern using this view as well as some of the other views.  I decided that I could wear this top to work as well as for casual purposes.

Happy 4th of July!

I have had a good holiday weekend and it started early for me as I took Thursday as a vacay day.  In between shopping, family activities, grilling and such, I have been sewing.  I completed the Butterick 6216 top pattern.

I had some fitting issues with the back neckline; there is a lot of bulk in the back neckline with the crossover back overlay and the back piece.  Some of the weight of this plus adding neckband creates a small fold at the neck base.  The more I looked at the envelope and the view I made I can see some of the same pulling in that area on the model.  I did trim out some of the bulk after applying the neckband before topstitching in place.

All in all I am happy with the results.  I had to make some alterations with the pattern including 1.5 inch FBA, forward shoulder adjustment, one inch sway and back length adjustment.  At the hip area I took 3/8 inch seam tapering to 5/8 from waist to underarm.

Here are few shots of the completed top.

close up of back neckline

Back view

Front view

I have an opportunity to go to the beach of the end of this month so I am going to make a few more knit tops for my upcoming trip.  I have lots of top patterns and need to narrow down what I can make between now and then.  I like another version of this top but using a different back piece as seen in another view.

I hope you enjoyed your holiday weekend if you are celebrating the 4th.  Time for dessert.  More later.

Stretching the material

Vogue 8742 is complete and I plan to wear it to work next week.  Until then here are views of the dress hanging

Back view

Front view.

.I used my coverstitch machine to complete the hems.

I was fortunate to have enough of this fabric to use for to make a top using one of my new Butterick patterns. I making View C, shown on the model.

6216

After seeing a review of the pattern on PR I knew I had to have this in my collection.  Since the serger, coverstitch and sewing machines were threaded for this fabric, I pin fitted the pattern yesterday and cut out the fabric this morning.  I have already started sewing the top and the back pieces are sewn and basted together.

Back view on cutting table

Back view pinned on Alma Marie

Here is a view of the lavender cotton lace fabric with medium gray cotton fabric beneath.  Once the top is completed I am reviving the lace overlay skirt.

A little sewing

I have made progress on my dress.  I like the color blocking with solid and print fabric.  The shoulders are sewn and the sides are basted for fit before I attach the sleeves.  I started to just sew it up since I have made this twice now; yet each knit fabric behaves differently so I want to be sure that this knit does not need extra attention to get the proper fit.

Work consumed a lot of my time last week thus leaving me pretty much to tired to do much of anything. One day I put in 10 hours and by the time I got home I just was too tired to eat much less do anything but zone out and then sleep.  This week is more normal and have sewn in bits of time.

I will have enough fabric left over from both of these fabrics for a top.  I ordered some patterns from Pattern Review, mostly Butterick, as they were $2.99 on sale.  However I received a notice from Deepika that there was a ordering mistake and not all patterns were shipped to meet all the orders.  So I must wait for these.

It is not like I don't have other patterns to try so I am not lacking for things to sew.

More later.

Putting skirt on hold

I so wish I lived near a better fabric store.  I found zilch at JoAnn's; no surprise there.  I have visited other JoAnn's that have better quality fabrics; the local one leaves a lot to be desired.

For now I am putting aside my skirt project and moving on to the next project.  I know I have made the right decision about the lining for the skirt.  My inner voice which I chose to listen to for once was screaming don't do this.

For my next project  I plan to use these two knits from EOS purchased in March.  Both are washed and ready to go.

As to what I plan to make, I think I may try a new Butterick pattern recently purchased.

B6166

I plan to make View B, and add sleeves just shorter than the ones on View C.  Should I change my mind then I plan to make a dress from a TNT Vogue knit dress pattern.

V8742

This was my second version of the pattern and the fabric was a slinky knit I bought at a ASG National Conference in DC back in the early 2000's. I would use the floral print for the center front. This an OOP now and is not on the Vogue site.

I looking for an immediate gratification project and a TNT pattern would fit the bill.

Sewing progress

I spent a lot of time on B6175-crop, boxy top.  I am not exited about how the top is shaping up.  Some of my dislike is that the fabric is not performing as I thought it would for this top.  The other dislike is not so sure that this top is going to work for me.

I had to make some fitting adjustments throughout the sewing process for this top.  As you will recall from an earlier post, I had to cut a new front piece which improved the fit and allowed me to re-position the darts.

I decided to use an invisible zipper for the back piece, which I like and glad that I did.  I now think though that I might should have taken a deeper back seam.

I had to remove 1/2 inch from the shoulder width as after basting in one of the sleeves for fitting purposes I discovered that it was falling off my shoulder too much.  I removed 1/2 inch from the back of the armscye and 3/8 from the front of it.  This helped improve the fit.  I also took a deeper back seam below the zipper.  I think my next move will be to taper the seams from the waist down to make it less boxy!  The sleeves are seem a little long, they are not yet hemmed.  I may shortened them before I am through!

I  pressed all of the seams after sewing and I am not liking how they look after pressing, that I know is due to the polyester fabric.

This may prove to be a wadder.  I have sewn a few of those over the past few months.

I really need to remeasure my shoulder width, upper chest and more as all the tops I am making of late are just to large.  I do buy my top patterns based on upper chest measurement.  When you get past a certain I think you do shrink.  I use to be 5'3", now I am 5'2.25"!  I have been getting in my workout time so that changes things also.

Here are some parting shots of work in progress:

I was still in PJ's and no shower and make up so what you get is what you see.

I am ready to move on to some other projects.  Perhaps it's time to make something in a pattern that is already fit perfected.  I need a winner.

B6175

I spent some time sewing this weekend-yeah!  I just have not had the mojo to sew much.  With the nicer weather this weekend I felt like spring and was able to move forward with sewing Butterick 6175.

I am making View C without the collar.  After pin fitting Friday evening, making pattern adjustments and cutting out the fabric yesterday, I was ready to sew today.

I immediately ran into a problem with the darts.  They were way too low after making a 1 inch FBA. Unfortunately I could not redo them and like the outcome.  Happily I had enough fabric to cut out a new front piece after going back and making adjustments to the front pattern piece.

There is a lot of ease in this top and think that the finished bust measurement is not truly accurate.  I went down a size, adjusted the dart angle and cut out a new front piece.

Here is the top in progress on Alma Marie.  Had to take a break from sewing to actually fix dinner; seeing how it does not fix itself.

Front view 

Side view

The instructions call for a back seam with facings attached and fasten with hook and eye.  I am going to insert an invisible zipper.  I think I will like that better.  I plan to baste a zipper in place and check the fit.  I recently have been taking deeper center back seams of late and think that this boxy top may require that also.

More later.  Hope your sewing weekend was a good one.