And so (sew) the Vaca and Holiday begins!

I am so excited that I am off for a whole week--I needed this break!

This AM I had a plumber come and fix the garbage disposal and after that was complete, I went to the sewing room and completed-finally-Vogue 9169.  This pattern is rated easy and for the most part perhaps that is an appropriate label.  The challenge with this pattern is adjusting the pattern pieces to fit as the upper front and back are one piece.  I needed a FBA about 1 1/2 inches which required some interesting maneuvering of the pattern piece.  The back needed a swayback adjustment which required also adjusting the bottom back piece. Below is the front FBA and the bottom front piece had to line up with the upper front.

Other adjustments needed were the sleeves, they are very tight IMHO and so I added 3/4 inch to the bicep area, tapering back to original cutting line of the sleeve.  I also reduced the length by 1 1/2 inches. My other adjustment was my usual forward shoulder adjustment.

After basting the side seams, I ended up reducing the seam allowance to 3/8.  I normally  sew an 18 at waist and taper to 16 at hip, with this pattern's largest size being 14, I failed to make an allowance for that.  I thought that with the adjustments for the FBA would give me that extra room.  I needed a smooch more.  I will have to remember good posture when wearing this!!!😊

Here are pictures of the completed garment, hope to take some photos wearing later this week.

V9169 View B is the one I made

Front View

Back View

The fabrics were easy to sew and worked well together.  The black is a bamboo knit and tends to wrinkle more than I thought it would, my first time sewing this type of knit.  The print is from EOS and I had a limited amount of it, thus did not have enough to use for the sleeves, so had to use the black.  I have enough of it to use as a small piece in another color/print block top, I love the feel of it.

So ready to start a new project.  Will share that with you later.

A wadder and then we move on!

I have hit a brick wall with the McCall's crossover v-neck top!  I don't wear V-neck dresses or tops much, normally too low and just not flattering on me.  Putting that aside I wanted to make this top-M7249.

I read Ann's review on PR and her post on her blog.  Her dresses are lovely and she like me is shaped like a rectangle.  From an earlier post I was using a lovely knit fabric from Fabric Mart and was a nice knit to work with.  The issue was not the fabric but the dang v-neck and how the overlay attached at that area.

I sewed the heck out of that neckline trying to get dots lined and stitching to end where it would should until I ended up cutting a big honking hole at the neckline.  I decided I will put this aside for now as the frustration with myself and the pattern is not getting me any closer to finishing this top.

So on to the next project and I don't know what I want to make.  Perhaps I should say that I have several items I want to make I just am not feeling the vibe as to what single thing to make now.

Maybe after walking away from this project I can give it proper attention.

More later.

A Glimpse of Progress

I finally finished cutting out the McCall's top. I was able to make a start on sewing it Sunday.  I hoped to be further along than I am.  Neck and shoulder problems slowed me down yesterday.

Here are a few photo shots of the front pieces

front bodice with darts sewn

Overlay with one facing side folded and basted.

The colors of the fabric don't show up so well with my camera.  Played around with photo program on my computer.

I basted the darts and the front bodice to back and the fit was pleasing.  Hope when adding the overlay that the results turn out well. 

What's next

I began pattern fitting and adjustments yesterday and this morning for my next top.  I am using McCall's 7249.  I am making the long sleeve version.

I had to make several adjustments to this pattern-forward shoulder, swayback, narrow back, FBA. The challenging fit adjustment was the FBA.  The base front piece will not have a dart as a result of the bust adjustment.  I did not want the overlay to have a dart so I moved that to gathered edge of this pattern piece. I also adjusted the neckline by one inch as well. I will post some photos of those adjustments later.

I am using a knit that I recently purchased (September) from Fabric Mart; this one did not stay in the collection very long.  This is not the best photo of this fabric.  It is a lovely light pinkish beige with tones of light and dark gray.

My plans are to cut out the fabric this afternoon.

Presto Popover Top-take 2

I completed the Presto Popover top and had the opportunity to wear it yesterday.  DH took some photos of me wearing after having worn the top for several hours.

Back

Front

This is my second version of this top.  The first being a wadder; too many pattern adjustments made to the first to really mess up the fit.  With this one, I kept the shoulders as drafted for the medium upper chest and shoulder size.  I drafted a large for the remainder of the top.  I also did a 3/4 inch swayback adjustment.  There are still some fitting adjustments I need to make before I attempt this one again.

The reason for my hands being on my hips for the back photo view is because I really need for hip room in the back.  It rides up while wearing as there is not enough width at the hip area to sit well especially over jeans.  DH wanted me to hold the back piece down so the tell tale wrinkles did not show.  

The front needs a little more bust room.  I made a FBA and eliminated the resulting dart. I can see the wrinkles under the best pointing to the need for more room. I think I can do a vertical adjustment to correct this.

The collar was not as bothersome as I thought it might be. Once you turn the neckline into a shawl time collar it works well.  I still think I will pleat out some of the width on the next one.

The knit used was a sweater knit/rayon fabric from Gorgeous Fabrics.  It wears well but fiddly to sew.  The sleeves are still a little tight for my liking and will adjust those more next time.

Test Garment

I have been away since Wednesday attending a business conference in Greensboro, North Carolina. Returning yesterday after unpacking I decided to spend a little time in my sewing room. I basted the side seams for the Presto Popover Top. That was the last step in the process to determine the fit.

I took some photos and made some notes on the fitting areas for the neckline. I used a medium size for the neck and shoulders and upper chest. I then blended to a large about an inch from the underarm to the bottom of the top. An earlier post I showed you the full bust adjustment I made. The issue is the back collar. There seems to be just too much fabric for the back neckline for me. Or perhaps the center neckline seam needs to be taken up. Perhaps I need to trace the small for the neckline and use the medium for the shoulder and upper chest.

One of the fitting issues in sewing the test garment, I had to re-do the back attachment to the front piece and in doing so I ended up cutting about 3/8 of the yoke seam which I knew would impact some of the fit. This is also a very thin burnout knit and most likely the recovery in re-stitching the front to the back twice impacted the look of the neckline in the front as well as the back.


I really appreciate and want your constructive feedback about what you see from the pictures below. Are you seeing what I'm describing or something else? Let me also say I made a forward shoulder adjustment which may not be appropriate for this pattern. I can see from the photos as well as in person that the shoulder area moves forward. Again I'm not sure that this is an appropriate adjustment for this pattern. I've looked at several reviews of this pattern on Pattern Review and it's hard to tell where the back yoke needs to fall.

Thanks again for reviewing and your feedback.

Presto Popover Top

I have been working on the Presto Popover Top this weekend. I printed this pattern several days ago and Friday evening I taped all of the pages together. I then traced around the medium and large sizes that seem to fit my measurements. I then pin fitted the traced pattern and decided I needed to make a small FBA.

My first attempt at the FBA was to use my usual method which results in a bust dart. I then decided to eliminate the bust dart and take off the extra from the side that was created. However something went wrong in this process and the side seams did not match up. I really did not want a bust dart. I decided to try another method using fitting book by Sandra Betzina. 

If you click on the photo you will be able to see how this method works to create a FBA. Here's what the front pattern piece looks like using this method.

I decided to use another fabric to test so this pattern. This is a piece that is from my stash that's a burnout rayon knit that I purchased from JoAnn's Fabrics. I made some adjustments to the shoulder as well as a sway back adjustment.  Because of these adjustments I decided that it was best to test the pattern. From reading reviews at PR, I know that there is a tricky part with the neckline and attaching it to the back. And of course it took me three tries to finally get it correct. In doing so my cheapo fabric stretched out a shape somewhat. I am happy that I have figured out how to do this so when using other fabrics I should not have this issue.

I still need to attach the sleeves and during the pin fitting process I determined that I had traced the wrong size and had to trace another sleeve pattern. It does seeing from the reviews that the sleeve may be tight so I adjusted for that as well. Once you sew in the sleeves flat you then sew up the side seams and hem.  Then presto!  you have a completed top.

Here's a picture of the fabric that I'm using; it's hard to see the burnout areas and the knit is very thin. However it has served its purpose as a test for this pattern.

Second Kirsten Kimono Tee

I started making my second Kirsten Kimono Tee today.  I cut out the pattern, set up the serger and began sewing the top after dinner.

I used a lightweight blue floral knit I acquired online from a source that I do not remember.  I purchased this in 2012.  I remember the source being someone who was decluttering and selling off some fabric. I don't know why I did not make note of this when taking and cataloging the photo.

This photo does not do this fabric justice.  The blue, purple and lavender flowers are very bright and cheery.  Fortunately I have over a yard left of the fabric after cutting out the kimono top.

I will have completed this project tomorrow and will post more then.

B6216 Wearing

I had a few moments this AM while getting ready for work to take photos of the  Butterick top I posted about recently.

I still have some pooling in the back area, similar to the model on the pattern envelope.

I truly like the top and will plan to make more from this pattern using this view as well as some of the other views.  I decided that I could wear this top to work as well as for casual purposes.

Happy 4th of July!

I have had a good holiday weekend and it started early for me as I took Thursday as a vacay day.  In between shopping, family activities, grilling and such, I have been sewing.  I completed the Butterick 6216 top pattern.

I had some fitting issues with the back neckline; there is a lot of bulk in the back neckline with the crossover back overlay and the back piece.  Some of the weight of this plus adding neckband creates a small fold at the neck base.  The more I looked at the envelope and the view I made I can see some of the same pulling in that area on the model.  I did trim out some of the bulk after applying the neckband before topstitching in place.

All in all I am happy with the results.  I had to make some alterations with the pattern including 1.5 inch FBA, forward shoulder adjustment, one inch sway and back length adjustment.  At the hip area I took 3/8 inch seam tapering to 5/8 from waist to underarm.

Here are few shots of the completed top.

close up of back neckline

Back view

Front view

I have an opportunity to go to the beach of the end of this month so I am going to make a few more knit tops for my upcoming trip.  I have lots of top patterns and need to narrow down what I can make between now and then.  I like another version of this top but using a different back piece as seen in another view.

I hope you enjoyed your holiday weekend if you are celebrating the 4th.  Time for dessert.  More later.

Happy Easter!

I have had a long weekend, starting with Good Friday.  I am taking a PTO day tomorrow.
Friday, I spent time shopping, bought two pair of shoes at Macy's and got 30% off.  I ordered a pair online as they did not have my size in the store.  Photos to follow.

Saturday AM spent time at the Y on tread mill, came home and sewed some, then DH and I had to run errands and then a nice dinner out.  More sewing last night.

Did more sewing this morning and I am still working on the KS top!  I had ambitious plans for sewing for the long weekend; I always do.

Let me say that the KS top, is taking forever to sew.  The overlay is a nice design feature but there is a lot of hemming involved.  The knit I am using for the overlay is a little "fiddly" so turning and sewing the hem around the bottom edge required me to use stitch witchery to fuse the folded fabric together to give it some body to sew nicely.

I am almost finished; I have no energy to finish this evening.  Maybe I will get a second wind.  Just finished dinner and the clean up and really feel like just sitting and reading.

I hope your Easter was a pleasant one!

Kwik Sew 4085 With overlay in place

Linda LaMona @danvillegirl Kwik Sew 4085 in ...Instagram photo | Websta (Webstagram)

Another link to photo of KS top with the overlay attached.  This is an interesting pattern and with Kwik Sew patterns, normally the instructions and drawings are most helpful.  I have found one error with attaching the overlay to the front and back.  It tells you clearly to place the overlay wrong sides to right side of the right front and back.  However it never tells you to baste or pin for before turning inside out to sew shoulder seams together.

The drawing shows basting stitches of the overlay to the front and back of the top.  I knew to do that but for a beginning this could be an issue.

I made one mistake (so far) in that I did not adjust the length of the overlay front and back pattern pieces.  I shortened the front and back top pieces by one inch between waist and hip.  Never thought to do that with the overlay.  It will be an easy fix to trim off the bottom of overlay (at least I hope so). I made all other adjustments to those overlay pieces for the shoulder.  Will definitely make this adjustment to the pattern pieces before putting it away.

I really like the construction of this pattern and will make more in the future.

M6964 Complete

I finally finished the knit top-M6964.  It was not a difficult top to sew; I read the instructions before starting the project.  If you have made many simple knit tops then you pretty much sew on autopilot as I did with this top.

Adjustments I made were:

• FBA of 1 inch
• 5/8 inch high upper round back adjustment
• 5/8 forward shoulder adjustment
• swayback and shortened the overall back length by one inch
• reducing the length of the top by one inch and sewing a one inch hem.

The fabric used for the bodice was a nice knit from EOS and the black sleeves and neckband are a burnout type knit from I think Fabric.com.  It was a little difficult to handle but worked out okay.

Here are a few shots of the finished top.  I plan to use this pattern again for more simple t's.

Front view on hanger

Back view

Semi side view

Front view

On to the next top pattern!

Chic Chemise or Fall Top #1

There were lots of changes taking place last week at work.  It was somewhat stressful at work to say the least.  Some layoffs and some structural changes; the structural change impacted my area of work. Sewing was not top of mine last week.

My sewing plans changed from my last post.  Though that fabric will get made next.  Last night I traced an Angela Wolf Ruched T pattern and after pin fitting today, decided I did not want to tackle this pattern at this time as there were going to be a lot of adjustments and just did not have the energy to work on those.

I decided to pull out another pattern, a tunic top, I had made a couple of years ago, McCall's 6203.  It is no longer available; yet tunic tops abound and I decided that this was wearable now.

I decided to make View D (bottom right).  The drape neckline is not really a cowl neck, it is a draped fabric attached at the shoulders only.  I thought it would be different look.

The fabric is from my stash and I think it came from Fabric Mart in a fabric bundle.  I have no photo on file and did not take a photo today.

I have tomorrow off for Columbus Day and plan to sew.  More later!

Sunday Sewing

I mentioned in an earlier post that I was going to participate in the Pattern Review T-shirt contest. I pulled out from my pattern stash a raglan sleeve T-shirt pattern by Textile Studio called the Santa Monica T. It appeared that I had not used  this pattern since 2004, or at least made notes to the pattern in 2004.

I used a cotton knit fabric from my fabric stash and added 1 inch side seems as I am sure there have been some body changes since 2004.  I now need to thread the serger and sewing machine. This will be pretty much all that I will complete for today. Next up firing up the grill for Sunday dinner. Monday is back to work day.

What I wore-Penny Pinafore by Kitschy Coo

I completed the dress this weekend and wore it yesterday to work.

Back view

Front view

Semi side view

I really like this dress pattern and the way it falls from shoulder down.  I did feel like that by the end of the day the dress expanded from waist down.  I had thought about taking a deeper side seam at the waist.  This is a wash and wear fabric; I did wash and dry before sewing.  Sometimes fabric still shrinks so I will test the need for taking deeper waist to hem side seams.

The fabric did not wrinkle much and in spite of the warmer temperatures I felt comfortable in the dress and with longer sleeves and cool A/C in my office, the longer sleeves felt good.  I had to travel in the dress yesterday, so driving and getting in and out of the car, again the wrinkles were minimal.

I do see another dress from this pattern for the future. 

Almost complete

I am making great progress on the dress and I am so pleased with the fit.  I had some tweaks to make while sewing.  The weight of the knit fabrics pulled the shoulders and neckline down.  I ended up taking in the shoulder seams by one inch.  I cut 3/4 inch off the top of the sleeve and it fit perfectly.  I did test it before cutting off the excess fabric.

I cut the neckband about 3/8 wider than called for so I could stitch a 1/2 seam to attach the neckband.  I like having a little extra width as it makes sewing and handling better.

The sleeves call for a band at the hemline and I cut out the stripe/floral fabric for that band.  I still need to attach the bands and hem the dress.  The length is a little long but I am thinking about keeping it that length and having a midi length dress.  I am still thinking on that.

I needed to take a deeper seam at the back/side back area at the waist line to take out a smidgen of fullness.

Here is shot of the dress hanging as it is now.

front view

back view

More later!

Sew What's Next?

I made my final tweak to the dress last night and it is ready to wear Thursday.  The sleeves still pull a little bit and I think that has to do with the adjustment to the shoulder and maybe I did not need to alter the sleeves as much as I thought.  It is wearable and I can quit obsessing about it and move on.

I have a lot of fabric and a lot of patterns making it hard for me right now to pick one.  After making this recent garment I want something easy peasy!  I have washed a few fabrics to get them ready for sewing whenever I decide what they will be.

I want to make the red denim jacket and that is ready to go; not going to be an easy sew so keep putting it off.  I have been browsing blogs for inspiration, as well reading each morning while having breakfast Pattern Review reviews.

I have decided that I am going to use a blue colorway as my DH pointed out to me that I have been on a kick to sew lavendar/purple shades of late.  He is right.  So these two fabrics will be my next project and what that will be is still undecided.  Both purchased earlier this year from EmmaOneSock.

Now for a top--NL 6150 and maybe some lace

The skirt is hemmed.  Needs to be pressed.  After hemming and moving on to some other home chores; I kept thinking how can I salvage this skirt.

I returned to the sewing room during the afternoon and checked to see how much of the fabric I have left. Enough to make another skirt using a skirt pattern that I have sewn several times previously; thus no real fitting adjustments to make.  It is a pattern well liked by many sewist if you read reviews on Pattern Review.
It is McCall's 5523.  I have made it in cotton stretch woven and wool.

I decided to cut out New Look 6150, another knit top pattern I sewed last year using a mesh knit fabric seen below.  The fabric I used this time is similar in weight. It too was purchased at the time I bought the skirt fabric and I planned to use it with that fabric.

This is what the fabric looks like

Because NL 6150 has a cross over of fabric in the front, I chose the pattern for that reason.  This way the front will be more opaque and I won't have to have lining knit for this fabric.  The fabric is cut out and ready to sew.

So how to salvage the current skirt?  I thought about lace.  I see many skirts with lace as well as leather.  I am thinking a lace panel to attach somehow.  Now I need to research lace fabrics.  If you have suggestions for sources with a variety of colors, please leave a comment to this post.

"Sometimes I get a good feeling---"

I have been listening to music this evening and I have this song playing over and over.  Yes, I do have a good feeling as the temperatures rose some today making it feel like spring could be coming some day soon. 

Something did arrive earlier this week, new spring fabric from EOS.  I have not even taken it out of the plastic wrapping yet. 

French floral on stripe knit

Royal blue 11 oz rayon knit to go with fabric above

Floral lightweight cotton

The blue fabric is much prettier than it is showing up here.  My plan is make a skirt to wear with the fabric above it or to incorporate both pieces into a dress.  The floral cotton piece will become a blouse.

Speaking of blouses, I have serge finished the edges of the main bodice pieces of the blouse I am currently working on for the Fitted Blouse Contest at PR and as my Garment for the Month.  Another good feeling.
I hope your week has been going well.  More later.