Friday, November 23, 2012

From cowl to boatneck

I made Pamela's Pattern #104 top earlier this year.  I have the fit pretty much the way I like it.  As always there are some tweaks I could make.  I decided to trim out some of the fullness in the waist and hip areas.  I decided to try #107 that has some different necklines--ballet, square, boat and funnel.

I decided to try the boatneck.  I like this look but I have not always had good fit when I have made a Burda and Jalie boatneck style pattern.  I have even had issues with Pattern Master and drafting one using that software program.

I decided to test the pattern using some fabric that would not offend my sensibilities if it did not fit the way I wanted.  Per instructions you use your basic pattern from #104 and overlay the neckline template over this aligning at the shoulder and center front.  Because I made some additional adjustments to the base pattern at the shoulder, I think this created a slight fitting issue.  I also made an unnecessary dart adjustment when sewing the test garment that resulted in a poor fit through the bust area.

The knit I used was also thicker than the knit I used for my previous two tops.  This also changes the fit.  I had taken a horizontal tuck in the base pattern that I think now is too deep; at least it was with this test garment and again some of the issue may be with the beefier knit used.  The real positive though is that the neckline fits very well!!!!  With all of the known issues now,  I plan to tackle a new draft of the the pattern.

I also plan to cut out another Vogue 9771 top using fabric acquired a year ago from Waechter's.  I do love the look of that pattern and the fit is now perfected.

Updates later.

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