M7262 Complete

Well my first project for 2016 is finally complete.  Truly it has been completed for several days except I had not purchased nor sewn a heavy duty snap to the shoulder and top edge of the underlying front.

I still find myself not letting go of something until complete; thus not moving onto other projects in my queue.  When I do I sometimes end up with UFO's just taking up space and hanging around in the sewing room.  I wanted this complete as I want to wear while temperatures were not so frigid.  This will be a warm knit coat/sweater to wear but not against long periods of time outside when it is 30 degrees.

I have not taken photos yet of me wearing and will do so soon.  Here is views of the front and back hanging.

I like this pattern and considering making again; perhaps using a sweater knit instead of a textured double knit.  The fabric I used will definitely provide some warmth.

I was happy that I had buttons in stash to use----

The placement of the buttonholes and thus the buttons was challenging.  The underlying front piece is attached via a snap at the shoulder seam.  I had to keep pinning it in place to determine where exactly the buttonholes and buttons should fall.  Because of the mixed sizes I used this did somewhat impact buttonhole placement.  I perhaps should have spaced them further apart, yet they work as they are now allowing for the jacket to fall open more for sitting and driving.

My buttonhole stitches on my sewing machine are finicky and not always do the buttonhole programmed to duplicate themselves as they should after programming them for style and size.  Thus I had to remove one buttonhole which was tedious.  The one thing that I did was to use a water solvent material on top of the knit to help the buttonhole stitches not to sink down into the knit fabric. This worked very well. 

I am ready to move onto the next project once I decide what that will be. 

More later.

April Sewing

Not much going on in the way of sewing for the past week or so.  I have cut around pattern pieces for two projects I want to sew soon.  One is a Vogue dress pattern, V9022.  There are nice reviews of this pattern on Pattern Review.  I plan to use a double knit from Gorgeous Fabrics, called geranium.

I purchased this in 2012.  I pressed it this evening as I had washed it last weekend to prepare for sewing.

The other pattern I pulled out and cut around pattern pieces is a new purchase. Butterick 6175.  You can tell that this pattern is loose fitting. I may not make mine as loose.

I plan to use this fabric that I acquired from Schoolhouse Fabrics in Floyd, VA last year.  It is a Robert Kaufman polyester semi sheer fabric.

Both of these pieces make me feel like spring time!

I have so many sewing plans running through my head and need to get moving.

Mentoring event and V9024

As noted in my earlier post, I had an event to go to last night.  The perfect event for me to final wear Vogue 9024.  DH gave me high compliments on the dress and said "Alma would be impressed".  Alma was my grandmother who taught me to sew and from whom I got the sewing gene.

I was/am pleased with the fit of the dress with an exception of the back.  I posted a little about this during the sewing process with this dress.  It is apparent that there is still pooling in the back and I did not insert shoulder pads as I thought about doing.    Of late I have been doing almost an inch adjustment to back length on many patterns and when you viewing the back view in the picture I should have taken another 1/2 inch with this.  I can live with it as it is now.

So without further ado::::::

Front view-fabric Mood and Gorgeous Fabrics

Back view, with pooling

Left side view-princess seam

Right side view-waist and bust dart, peplum is attached at side seam

The temperatures last night were in the 20's so running from car to event center was not so bad with a lined mostly wool dress.

The event was a great success with over 100 individuals in attendance.  Staff did a great job of putting this together and was a honor to acknowledge mentors who give of their time and talents to support at-risk youth.

V9026 Details

I have been able to sew for a couple of days now during my staycation. I gave you a glimpse of Vogue 9026 recently and now I have some additional photos showing more detail.

I really like this pattern and do plan to sew more of it. I had to make several fitting changes as I normally do which included a FBA, a FSA, sway back adjustment and a back length adjustment.

With the FBA I did not want to keep the created dart from the adjustment and removed that dart using a tutorial from Debbie Cook at "STITCHES & SEAMS". (It may not be there now, but I burned that technique into my brain to use; it really works.)

Here are a few photos of the top on a hanger as well as me wearing:

Forward side seam

Front

Sleeves with contrasting band

With the removal of the dart extra width was added through the center front piece and I had to adjust the hem band to make sure that everything would line up. The pattern calls for a specific amount of stretch and if you choose to use less than that you need to allow for extra width in the hem band as the stretch of the band is significant to fit the bodice. I had planned to use the solid black fabric for the hem band and realized that the black fabric did not have the necessary stretch to fit. Fortunately the animal print knit met the required stretch factor.  The sleeve bands require considerable stretch as well, again test the stretch of your fabric.

This is a warm top as the fabric is fairly heavy and given that we had a couple inches of snow today I stayed fairly comfortable while outside wearing this under my pea coat.

With this top finished I started the McCall's knit top. That top is almost complete and another post to follow to give you more detail.

Last and first garment

I actually had almost completed this cardigan-M6844-but still had some sewing to do the next day (1-1-14) so I guess this will be my first project for 2014 as well as the last project I was working on for 2013.

This is View A and pretty much all fitting adjustments were made to this one and pattern pieces have been adjusted now also for the next version.

Here is the back

I am not sure if I will wear this all that much but I did use up some of my stash.

I have cut out the knit boucle fabric and it is ready to sew.  I am making View C with short peplum.  I just got home from visiting family in Danville so no sewing this AM; I will be in the sewing room soon after posting this.  I need to get machines set up and start sewing.

This is an easy sew and now that I have done it once the second one should go smooth even though it is a different view.

I will share my fitting adjustments and hopefully take a photo of me wearing this later today/tonight.

McCall's 6844

I made all the pattern adjustments this morning to the pattern-two people indicated that the shoulder was long so made an adjustment to the length.  I found the sleeves to be very snug when pin fitting the pattern so added width to those.  I also made swayback and forward shoulder adjustment. 

I also made a small FBA.  I know most people said the pattern ran large.  I purchased the xs-s-m size pattern based on upper chest measurement and will cut out the medium size pattern buying.  The finished width per the pattern is 36 which is a tad to snug for me.  Decided that I needed this adjustment and since it is a stretch fabric I would not made a larger than an inch FBA.  I think before I cut into this boucle knit fabric:

I will sew up a double knit that I have in my stash that I have used in some other projects and have enough to test the pattern with it.  If it works, then I will have another cardigan to wear in a different color.

Off to the sewing room-trying to make good use of my vacation time getting in some sewing!  This cardigan jacket was to be my December Project of the Month.

First Garment of 2013-Magic Pencil Skirt

Yeah!  Completed my first garment for 2013.  Hopefully this is good omen for sewing for 2013.  My review is below and will post on PR.  I have not posted much there in the past several months.

Pattern Description: Pamela’s Patterns-Magic Pencil Skirt

Pattern Sizing: Small

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Super easy instructions to follow.  The instructions include fitting suggestions, how to attach elastic, etc.  Excellent pattern for any beginner to try.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  I love the ease of making this skirt.  There is not much to dislike at all.  Once you have perfected the fit you could sew up several in one setting.  I have made three skirts thus far; the new one I added a lining.

Fabric Used:The fabric I used for this one is a printed light weight double knit from Vogue Fabrics.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:  The only change I made this time was to add a lining.  I attached the lining at the waistline by serging the edges together.  I then attached the elastic at the waist.  I also do not totally stitch around the bottom edge of the elastic, preferring to attach by stitching in the ditch of the darts and side seams.   This way when I wear it there is no tell tell elastic waist should I have my top tucked in.  I don’t wear belts much so prefer this method.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  I have sewn this skirt three times now and I am sure I will make additional ones in the future.  I highly recommend this pattern whether you are a beginner or advanced sewist.

Conclusion Easy to make skirt pattern.  Suitable for skirt wearers of any size.

Here are some potential looks with this skirt and other garments in the wardrobe.  The first one is a purple sweater jacket from Macy's with the skirt.  The second one is teal top that blends to black at the bottom of the top and sleeves.

Next two projects.

My next two projects.

The top fabric will be another Magic Pencil Skirt from Pamela's Patterns.  I cut this out two days ago.  Because fabric is not as stretchy as some other double knit fabrics I added just in case 1 inch seams. 
This will be easy peasy to whip up and I have a beautiful sweater jacket purchased from Macy's that goes perfect with the purple in this skirt.

The bottom fabric is faux suede that will become a KS jacket pattern.  I just finished tracing all of the pattern pieces last night and now need to pin fit for adjustments.  This will be lined.  I will do a pattern reveal later.

Latest fabric acquisitions

After going through my knit fabric collection to make test garments last week, I found it somewhat lacking in appropriate knits for the season.  I had seen some knits on several sites.  I obsessed over a couple at EOS and know if I don’t order quickly sometimes, others beat me to the purchase. 

I ordered two knits from EOS.  One is a Ponte knit called Bittersweet; it is somewhat what I would call a pumpkin color.

The other knit is an ITY knit in a black, charcoal and cream floral print. 

The next four knits are from Vogue Fabrics.  Two are from the current Winter 2012 Fabric Swatch and two were in the prior swatch.  The two floral fabrics are double knit; the  rust colored fabric is a knit crepe and the steel gray is a bamboo knit.  I have yet  to try bamboo knit but understand that it does shrink a lot. 

Quick and easy

After spending my stay/sewcation working mostly on Butterick 5602, I needed a quick and easy project to tackle next.  I decided to try Pamela's Pattern #109 the Magic Pencil Skirt.  I followed the directions to a T.

I had enough red double knit fabric to test sew and if necessary cut another skirt from what was left.  I took the three measurements as suggested in the instructions- high hip (tummy), hip, and fullest part of thighs from this you chose which size you should  make.  I actually measured out at the upper end of the xsmall size range.  (I love some of the independent patterns size measurements; I have not considered myself a xsmall or small in a long time.)

I decided however to go with the small size.  I am glad I did as the skirt would have been too snug otherwise.  Snug is not the look I was going for.  I basted the darts and side seams as suggested and then tested the elastic again following the instructions for this pattern.  I found I needed to add a little to the front of the waist line area and do the usual swayback back adjustment for the back.  I then traced the pattern piece again as the front and back is the same piece.  I adjusted this one for the front changes I needed and the original tracing was adjusted for the back for my fitting needs.

I then cut the remaining red double knit to make my second skirt.  I kept the front darts but as suggested in the instructions if you have hollow space or dimpling you may want to eliminate the darts.  Next time I will try that, for now this works okay for me.  The instructions have you attach the elastic, turn and then stitch just below the elastic.  Using Pamela's method for sizing the elastic and using a quality elastic you should have not the gather elastic casing look.  I decided at this point to not stitch it per the instructions but to stitch in the ditch at the side seams and at the darts.   You can see how that looks with this photo:

Here is another photo of the finished skirt.  It is not as orange red as it looks in the photos.  I tried adjusting the color temperature to try to get it closer to the red it is, but results are still lacking.

I used the blind hem stitch on my sewing machine to sew this skirt.  Now that the pattern fit is perfected for me, this skirt can be made easily within an hour. 

Work in progress

I have finished the patten adjustments for Butterick 5672.  I cut out the lining fabric before fixing breakfast for DH and me.  Heading back to sewing room soon to cut out the fabric.  I am using a green double knit purchased from Marcy Tilton.  Lining is a tricot purchased from Fabric.com; both acquired in 2011. 

More updates later.

Color Blocked Dress

The red and black color blocked dress is complete.  I just finished hemming it this afternoon.  If I should ever make this dress again, I will do several things differently.

My inner voice was telling me to attach the various front and back pieces together much differently.  Yet I decided to follow the pattern instructions.  This created a lot of ripping seams apart, taking up seams, re-sewing the various parts again.

If you sew the front pieces together, then sew back pieces a lot of fitting issues can be taken care of in the side seams without having to disturb other garment pieces.  I did not do that with this dress and it became annoying and frustrating to me.  My choice nonetheless.

The front and back waist inserts created fitting issues, at least for me, and I think because of how they are drafted.  One final fitting thing I did in addition to taking deeper side seam was to sew a tuck in the front waist insert aligning the tucks with the front seams.  This gave a much better fit through that area on me. 

Honestly, I did this also because I did not want to take out the side zipper and do more fittings.  I had already removed the zipper and re-inserted.  When doing that I caused a hole in the seam allowance but very close to the exposed side.  Fusible black interfacing fixed this little hole,  In the end, I am pleased with the final fit.

I did not like the waist insert facings. They were cumbersome to attach because all seams are sewn.  They would have you slipstitch them in place.  I do not like doing so much hand sewing. I ending up attaching them quite differently using my sewing machine as much as possible.

I will try to take some photos of the inside of the dress to give you an idea about the facings.  I am glad that this project is complete; it seemed to go on and on.

Onto the next project, which may or may not be the other Butterick dress I had originally plan to sew.  Updates later, off to see the Red Carpet showing prior to watching the Oscars.

Making progress

Red double knit washed and currently being dried.  Pattern pieces for black double knit have been cut out and ready to go.  Read through the instructions again briefly.  Dress calls for side zipper.

I have that but not sure it will be necessary as when I look at the pattern as it is on the model, it seems there would be enough room to pull over the head.  The pattern is described as close fitting, so that may make the zipper necessary.  Who knows, we will find out as we begin the journey of sewing this dress.

Next steps are to thread sewing machine and serger.  I have black and red thread so good to go.

As to the pattern adjusting for the other Butterick dress pattern, not done.  My intent was to have two projects ready to sew.  Yet I am feeling the need to actually sew something, so fitting for the other is on back burner.

Sewing update

This past work week was a busy one and at times stressful.  Sometimes when it is stressful spending time in my sewing room is just the thing to do.  Other times, like this week, I am just too tired to do much of anything that requires creative thinking.

I just spent two hours in my sewing room following a great dinner with DH.  I completed the fitting of the Butterick 5673 dress that I started on last week.  I screwed up the center back piece so badly that I purchased another pattern so I could fix my error.  Now that all pieces are fitted I decided to make another fabric change.  Instead of using the black/white geometric print fabric with the solid black, I am going to use red and black. 

The red fabric needs to be machine washed and dried before cutting it out.  Right now the washing machine is in use by DH so later tonight or first thing in AM it will get washed and dried. More later.

Pattern fitting

I was able to cut out the two dress patterns for fitting.  I started the fitting process on Butterick 5673 first.  This is an unlined dress, suggested fabric is double knit.  I have some black double knit that I used a small portion of when making this dress.  I have some of the black and white geometric double knit from that dress left over also.  I have some other solid color double knit as well, one piece being red.  I may decide that red and black will work better together.  But for now I am thinking geometric fabric for the center pieces.

Both dresses are multi-sized with largest size being 16.  The finished bust measurement for 5673 is 38 1/2 requiring me to make 2 1/2 inch FBA.  I wish the upper size was 18 as that allows for smaller FBA adjustment.  The other fitting adjustment I made was raising the scoop neckline; this is just too low for me.  I raised it 1 1/2 inches allowing for the 5/8 seam allowance.  I made my usual 1/4 inch upper chest/back horizontal tuck.

Forward shoulder and swayback adjustments are also necessary.

As to Butterick 5672, I did not get to it at all.  It too has an upper size of 16 so a full bust adjustment will be necessary also.  I am going to do the FBA on the lining front bodice as that piece has regular bust dart compared to the front bodice of the dress.  I think this will help me figure out how to do the FBA on dress front bodice.  I plan to make this dress from a solid green double knit.  I realized that I had not washed the fabric yet, so took time to do that.

I was not able to cut out the fabric before starting dinner; hope to get some of the pattern laid out and get a start on some of it.

Today is Butterick Dress day

On the right side of the blog you can see my work in progress.  I am going to spend my sewing time working on fitting these two patterns and then cut out at least one.  Fitting patterns is a time chore but very important step in making anything.

Updates to follow.

Black and white

Click here to see photos of the finished dress.  I may wear this dress tomorrow or Thursday.  I am thinking of black tights with black pumps to wear with it. 

It's nice to have completed this project and now I am ready for the next one.  Haven't decided but it will be an immediate gratification project before tackling something more challenging.

Double knits and skipped stitches

The dress I have been working on and the blue Kay Unger dress were both double knit fabrics.   I had skipped stitches with both of them.  I read in Clair Shaeffer's Fabric Guide that sometimes you can expect skipped stitches with double knits.  She did not offer a solution.  Sandra Betzina in her Fabric Savvy and More Fabric Savvy does not mention this as a factor.

I am wondering if any one has experienced this with sewing double knit.  If so, what do you do to aid in preventing this?   I have tried using stretch needles as well as universal.  Sandra Betzina recommends a stretch or zigzag stitch and a 2 to 2.5 mm stitch length.  I normally like to use 3mm stitch on most everything I sew with this type of weight.  I never use a stretch stitch, to hard to remove if you have to.   I do hold the fabric taut while sewing which seems to help some and sewing slow helps.  I appreciate your comments.

Productive sewing day

I really enjoyed sewing today, particularly because the fabrics are wonderful to sew.  Also this is a very easy pattern to sew as well.  I completed the pattern fitting and adjusting yesterday.  This AM, I laid out the fabric and pattern and had it cut out within an hour.  I was able to start sewing before DH awoke. 

After breakfast, I resumed sewing.  If I had not had other pressing things to do I probably could have completed the dress.  All that is left to do is sew sleeve seams, attach the black sleeve band and insert all into dress. 

The dress calls for a zipper.  However I found it was very easy to pull this over my head.  Probably because it is a double knit with some give.  I think if I used a woven fabric, I would insert a zipper.

The geometric print with black trim seems to give it a '60's feeling.  I love the fit.  More later.

De ja vu!

Well my dress is looking a lot like the photo on the right side, only better.  That photo is of the previous version. The skirt portion I kept so that is the same.

I sewed a lot today.  The lining is attached using a combination of the pattern instructions and my own method.  I am ready to insert the zipper, then sew the side seams.  Then I only have to hem the dress and the lining-yeah!  I see an end insight.

I just was not going to let this dress defeat me and I was not going to let this lovely fabric be wasted.  I am liking the fit of the dress now that I got the upper bodice and midriffs to fit and insert properly!

I am ready to move on to some other projects.  I think I am going to make a few tops that will be easy-peasy to make.  I need some new ones for the fall/winter.  I also want to make a few jackets and of course a few dresses.

Photos and more later.