Danvillegirl Sewing Diary

I had plan to post my sewing outcomes for the past holiday/vaca week and did not get around to doing so.  Returning to work on Monday was the usual "where did all this mail/stuff come from" and I was off and running into a busy workweek.

I had highly ambitious goals for my sewing plans that got interrupted from time to time.  I did finish the final touches to the blue Vogue skirt while off.  I did complete one top which was the Vogue cowl neck blouse that I just love the drape of the neckline and you have already seen enough photos of that.  I also worked on the Alma Blouse pattern with not so good results due to operator error not the pattern.  I think the fabric was the wrong choice along with the fabric being truly off grain and that in itself can create issues.

I did make two test garments using Pamela's Pattern #104 with #107 various necklines.  I did accomplish getting the right fit with the boatneck template, once I got the alignment for the shoulders correct.  I …

I thoroughly reviewed the fitting issues with the tested boatneck top.  I realized that I needed to align what becomes the shoulder seam with the shoulder point at the top of the arm on the base pattern and not what I had done previously.  In doing that the armholes lined up correctly and this allowed for the forward shoulder adjustments made on the base pattern.

Once I did that, I tested a second top from a lighter weight knit fabric that I had purchased from Fabric.com several years ago.
I never liked the color or the look of the fabric once I got it. It is has been in stash waiting for the right moment and it was just enough to make the front and back test garment.   It worked well for the test garment and after making the correct shoulder alignment, I have found a perfect boatneck top for me!!!







I cut out another top this AM using fabric acquired from Gorgeous Fabrics several years ago. (Sorry no photo of the fabric at this time.)  It is an unusual looking knit with a someone ombre …

I made Pamela's Pattern #104 top earlier this year.  I have the fit pretty much the way I like it.  As always there are some tweaks I could make.  I decided to trim out some of the fullness in the waist and hip areas.  I decided to try #107 that has some different necklines--ballet, square, boat and funnel.

I decided to try the boatneck.  I like this look but I have not always had good fit when I have made a Burda and Jalie boatneck style pattern.  I have even had issues with Pattern Master and drafting one using that software program.

I decided to test the pattern using some fabric that would not offend my sensibilities if it did not fit the way I wanted.  Per instructions you use your basic pattern from #104 and overlay the neckline template over this aligning at the shoulder and center front.  Because I made some additional adjustments to the base pattern at the shoulder, I think this created a slight fitting issue.  I also made an unnecessary dart adjustment when sewing the te…

Just because I like the neckline I thought I would share two more photos.  No more after this, I think you get it that I really like the neckline.

I am pleased with the outcome of V9771.  There are just a few tweaks to make on the pattern for the next top.  I really like the cowl or drape neckline on this top.  It is very similar to another Vogue pattern that I have made and that one calls for knit fabric.

Because the front and back are on the bias, I am letting this hang overnight before stitching the hem.

I was able to make adjustments to this pattern and cut out the fabric late afternoon into early evening.  I am making view A which is the short sleeve version. I had enough to make the long sleeve version; I decided that the short sleeve would be more usable for several seasons.  This is another rayon challis fabric I purchased from Fabric Mart a month or two ago.  Yesterday's wadder was from fabric from FM purchased at the same time.

Below is a photo of the fabric I used.  It is black and white with small gray dots.  I have had this pattern for a very long time and decided it had aged well enough.  The front and back are cut on the bias.  I only made a sway back adjustment.  The finished bust measurements seemed to indicate that a FBA will not be needed.



Tomorrow I will sew this up in between preparing some of the Thanksgiving meal for Thursday.  I have plans for making another Pamela's Pattern Top using either a funnel neck or a boat neck.  I made a few tweaks to this patter…

I decided that I really needed to clean up the sewing room and get rid of a lot of stuff that was just laying around; I also vacuumed up all the debris on the floor.  I then sorted through a huge bag of patterns that really needed to be put away.

I have a fabric storage room-I like the sound of that- but let me clarify that the room stores other stuff as well such as Christmas ornaments and the like.  Plus I have my grandmother's sewing machine and sewing table in this room also.  The bulk of it is plastic containers of fabric.  I am periodically traveling from sewing room which is at one end of the house to the storage room which is at the other end of the house.

I had pulled a lot of fabric for potential sewing projects for the fall and winter.  There were just too many in the room and I decided to cull through the stack of fabric and put it back in storage.

So now that patterns are put up, excess fabric out of the way and floor vacuumed I proceeded to put out top/blouse patter…

Well my first attempt in making the Alma blouse has not been successful.  I did not trust my instincts when it came to selecting the size I should use.  I know how Vogue, Butterick and Simplicity are going to fit and can almost make my usual fitting adjustments with out much to do.

I did not trust the sizing and should have because I went with the above pattern size and the top was too large.  I tried to make fitting adjustments; with each one I made it seemed to get worse not better.

The fabric was somewhat off grain as well and I thought I had made the right adjustments to straighten it out.  Selecting the wrong size, wonky fabric coupled with growing frustration,  I decided to walk away from this project at this time.  I have plenty others to work on.

Today is the start of my vacation and Thanksgiving holiday!!  Sewing, cooking, eating are the plans for the week with a mani and pedi thrown into the mix.

I have decided to make the "Alma" blouse.  Not sure which version yet but headed to the sewing room now to decide.  I really like the look of all versions, but what drew my attention to the pattern was the view with the collar; also my grandmother's name was Alma.

So off to the sewing room for the morning.  More later.

I pulled some fabric that was acquired last year or this year for potential tops to go with this blue skirt as well as navy pants in my wardrobe. The fabric below was acquired from Vogue Fabrics in 2011.

 This is a fairly recent purchase from Fabric Mart; a rayon challis fabric.
This is fabric from Waechters Fine Fabrics in Asheville, NC.
What has not been decided is what blouse/top patterns I will use.

I was able to finished the navy blue Vogue skirt.  Here are a few photos of the completed skirt.  Pressing still needed.  The first one is lightened version so you can see the various front seams.
 Another view of the front.
 I lined the skirt using the skirt pattern for the lining.  The waistline is faced using grosgrain ribbon.
 This is the back view of the skirt.
 I lightened this view so you can see the center front split and lining is peaking through.

I made some additional tweaks to the skirt, working on it sporadically during the week.  Need to tweak the lining, sew sides, attach lining and hem.

I have decided my next projects will be tops/blouses.  I then want to start on a jacket and a coat.  I also ordered a camel faux shearling fabric to make a vest from a KS pattern that I have wanted to use for some time now.

I have pulled several patterns to use for the tops/blouses; most of which will require pin fitting for adjustments over and above my normal ones.  Will post more later.

Today was much colder and when it gets like this I tend toward wearing pants.  Another alternative is opaque hose or tights.  So today I decided to wear the latest version of the Magic Pencil Skirt in a black and white geometric print.

The cardigan and tank top are items I have had in my wardrobe forever and then some.  They are from the Misook line of clothes and rather costly.  Yet I have gotten more wear from these items and proved that the price was a good investment.

The skirt fabric is a double knit leftover from a dress project where the main fabric is the geometric print and the yoke is black.  I acquired this fabric from Fabric Mart and it has proven to be one of the better double knit fabrics that I have purchased.  Shoes are black patent leather from Nine West acquired from Zappos.

I really like this pattern.  I sewed back darts but none in the front.   If you click on the photo the gizmo in my ear is my blue tooth.  I use the darn thing so much that I forget I have it on m…

Saturday night I serge finished all the seams for the skirt and the skirt lining.  Speaking of the lining, I did not have enough of the navy blue ambiance lining fabric and had to switch to black.  I now have a color blocked lining.

Yesterday, I made great progress on the skirt with front and back pieces completed along with the front and back lining pieces.  I then basted the side seams for fitting and found that the skirt was rather large and needed some tweaks.  The view I am making which is View B has several front and front side seams that I took deeper seams for a better fit through the front.  The upper back part of the centered back seams fits well but could be taken up from the hip down.

One of my normal fitting adjustments on most skirts is to reduced the length from waist to hip usually by about 2 inches.  Sometimes I add length to the hemline to compensate for the two inch reduction; sometimes I forget to do this and I end up with a shorter skirt/dress than anticipated.  T…

Decided to skip CURVES this AM!!! Walking around the grocery store and Walmart later will give me some exercise points today.  It was just one of those Saturday mornings where I wanted to do nothing more than drink my coffee, read some and go into the sewing room.

There have been plenty of discussions around the sewing blog world about using TNT patterns and using those as a jumping off point for creating a new but different garment from the TNT basic one.  I truly admire those individuals who do this time and time again.  I too have a few TNT's.  Given my personality, and supported by various "personality" tests such as Myers-Briggs and Right Path, I tend toward spontaneity and variation from routine.   So I tend to have several patterns that vary a lot or very little from another pattern.

That's the story I am sticking to when another big envelope arrives with more patterns and my husband says, "More patterns?"  Of course they are I say, I don't have…

I found the perfect, truly perfect, faux black leather fabric.   I purchased it from Sawyer Brook.  I want a black leather top with or without a peplum.  I am thinking with.  I have seen and saved so many black leather top photos that I was thrilled when I saw this on Sawyer Brook website.  When it arrived and I could actually see and touch it,  I was doing the happy dance.  I need to make some adjustments with the Vogue peplum top pattern that I used this summer.  I think it is short waisted and needs a little more width at the waist.  I have some faux leather "skin" fabric purchased recently from Mood and may make that up first to further perfect the fit.

I decided on my next skirt project also and it will be one of the new Vogue pattern purchases I made recently.  You can see it in the side bar.   The fabric is from Waechter's in Asheville, NC.

I have a lot of ideas floating around about next projects and just need to find more sewing time.
Later.