Recent pattern purchases

Here are a few of my recent pattern purchases. They have been acquired over the past month or so.

I have the perfect jacket fabric for this one but I am searching high and low to find the right black fabric for the dress. I ordered some tencel fabric from Sewing Studio recently as part of their recent summer ending sale. It was listed as black. What I got was navy blue. But I liked the navy blue so well and it was a great price, so I decided to keep it.

This one I purchased over a month ago. It looks summerish and it may end up being next year but I am hoping I can capture a summer into fall look with it.

This one caught my eye as soon as I saw it. Little did I know at the time that it was going to be such a big hit as a result of the ode to this pattern in the current Sew Stylish Magazine. They have created some really great garments with variations of the skirt, the jacket and the pants. After reading Carolyn's comments on her blog about how inspiring this issue of the magazine was, I had to go out and buy it today. She was right they have made some really nice garments from this one pattern. Truly inspiring.

I fell in love with this blouse pattern when I received my Vogue Patterns catalog in the mail a few weeks ago. I immediately snatched this one up.

Simplicity 3774

I am making progress finally on the fitting of this pattern using a new method. I screwed up the front bodice piece my first attempt and purchased another copy of the pattern to have a usable front bodice again. I redid the back and front bodice working on both yesterday and today in between other issues.

I am please with the results of the bodice pieces and will pin fit them later to see if there is anything wacky. This is my usual method of fitting patterns, pin fitting then determining adjustments needed then, making the fit adjustments, re pin and adjust more if necessary.

I like learning new things so this is appealing to me. I have yet to sew a stitch in my other dress that is sitting on the side lines waiting for attention. I have threaded the serger and all is ready to go, except me. My thoughts are now that I will sew some tomorrow and then go back to the fitting of the other later.

No Sewing Here

I have not sewn since over a week ago.

My old computer needed to be replaced and I spent all weekend reloading software. What a time consuming project that is. I am one of those folks that when I start something like this I can't let it go and keep on keeping on. Until I am just forced to stop, like fixing dinner so we can eat; or having to give my hand and shoulder a rest from being at the computer hours on end.

I have about three more programs to reload. Fortunately the hard drive on old computer did not die and Firedog folks were able to transfer all of My Documents-docs,excel,photos etc. over to the new computer. So not all was lost.

I am taking two vacation days at the end of this week so will definitely begin sewing one of the dresses currently cut out and waiting to be sewn. The serger and sewing machine are threaded and ready to go.

I am still working on using my sloper to adjust the pattern for the other dress. I am finding I am enjoying that process, it is like working on a puzzle. Learning quite a bit as well.

All for now, got to get dress to go to work.

Drum Roll!!!!!

Writing this blog with my new computer!!!!

I hate having to reinstall so much. I did back up some things-just not enough. I know I should do better with the backup stuff, I mean this is my fourth computer in 18 years. One crashed three times-this was one with the notorious ME operating system.

Well this has VISTA. So far so good! I really like the way it operates. Some differences from XP but nothing major. It does seems faster but that could be because I still have quite a few things to put back on. Please wish me good luck with that endeavor also.

No sewing here as you can see why. I do have a my favorite dress pattern cut out and serger set up. I am still fitting the other dress using Lynda M's fitting method. I am beginning to get the hang of that.

Good news is that I am taking two vacation days the latter part of next week---so hopefully there will be some sewing going on then.

Computers-Can't live without and nor can we live with them!

My great computer of 6+ years has been slowly deteriorating over the past several months. First it was a power supply replacement, then a new monitor. Yesterday the video card went and from looking inside the thing it is about to blow some gasket!

So tomorrow my new computer arrives and will have the new Vista program that I have heard mixed comments about. Unless I special order from some computer company you can't buy off the shelf with the "old" Windows XP.

Personally I never had problems with XP and I just hope Vista will not be a heartache. Buying the computer was a heartache. It will be a headache also having to reload numerous programs. My files and data will be transferred to new one it is the program stuff that is a concern. Plus I have numerous programs that I downloaded directly from websites. This is giving me anxiety!!!!

This morning I am using my work laptop to check emails and to write here. Hopefully all will go better than I think and then maybe not.

Worlds of Difference

I just read responses to my last post!

Obviously there is a world of difference in meaning for "shagging"!

Here in the USA a popular dance to "beach music" is the shag. I never thought once about what it meant elsewhere. Didn't think about Austin Powers and his shaggilious gal pals.

Trust what you see in the picture, the couple are dancing by doing the shag on the beach. This is too funny!!! I certainly don't mean to offend anyone nor make this blog any more than a sewing related one.

New Image

I changed the image at the top of the page. I know it has nothing to do with sewing. But I love the beach and have not gotten to go to a beach in sometime! The beach is peaceful to me. I can smell the saltwater smell and can hear the seagulls!
What a lovely vision. I don't really shag but I do love to see others who do.

Enjoy my little piece of heaven!

Projects on the table.

Danvillegirl Sewing Diary: Did I tell you that I love this dress?

Remember this dress linked above? I am making it again. This time though I am using the cap sleeve and the looped belt treatment instead of the ruching. I debated using the ruching again as I do like that look. But decided I wanted to try the other alternative. I am using fabric from Gorgeous Fabrics that I purchased soon after she started her site.

I have made a dress and a knit top from two of her fabrics. I have sent photos but they don't get posted on her gallery section. Perhaps it is the photos.

I am happy that the pattern adjustments were already done with the previous dress, so all I had to do was cut this out. The other happy thing is that I have fabric left over to make a knotknit top of some sort. This is a black and white knit with the white being circles on black background.

I am also making fitting adjustments with another Simplicity pattern to make another black with white polka dots sleeveless dress. This is fabric I purchased from JoAnn Fabrics during one of their sales earlier this summer. I am making the sleeveless version with the straight skirt. It has been so hot here this past week, that I don't care that my upper arms are not Janet Jackson sculpted anymore. I want comfort and that is spelled "sleeveless".

What I learned and what I need to know about slopers for fitting.

I wanted to comment on my experience with "De-Mystifying Fit" method of fitting patterns. I used this on the t-shirt pattern. Based on comments at PR, this pattern was said to run big. It does. It runs big compared to the Big 4. Since independent pattern makers are not part of that group their measurements are based on their preference or their frame of reference.

What I learned using my sloper with this pattern:

1. Pattern is big compared to my sloper.
2. I need to mark 1/4, 3/8 seam allowance on my sloper to have a better frame of reference to the pattern that I am working on. This pattern uses 1/4 seam allowances, my sloper was at 5/8.
3. Even with variance in seam allowances I recognized that the pattern was large with first overlay of sloper.
4. I traced the pattern I thought should fit me and then used sloper. It may be best to lay sloper over the original pattern that had multiple sizes to determine what size you should be tracing first. Then trace that size and begin your adjustments.
5. One main key to fitting using this method is shoulder point (at neck) to waist. Lynda M (author) says this is constant measurement. Once the shoulder length to waist fits as well as shoulder width and slope, every thing else goes from there.
6. As with FFRP, Sandra Betzina Fit and perhaps others, first correct the length then focus on the circumference.
7. I need to read through the entire book before attempting this method. I have a tendency to read through the first few chapters and then say "Okay, I got it, I can do this." As with most all fitting methods, there are numerous exceptions or alternatives to the "general fitting rule adjustment".
8. The examples given in this CD book are excellent examples and even though some I did not think would be of benefit to me, because I did not see myself having some fitting issues as the person, I actually did or could have them if pattern was off from my sloper.
9. Overall, I think this method has merit and one I want to continue to work with.
10. If you own a pattern drafting software program, as I do, with the program you can see your sloper overlaid on the pattern you draft using the program. This is the same principle.

I took some photos of the process but I am not going to post them. You can't see the transformations I made after cutting and sewing the pattern the first time as well as I thought you would. I need a tripod to do these self photos.

Here are the fitting issues I found with first sewing.

1. Shoulder length was still too long. Some of this is nature of knit. Ended up needing to take an additional inch off of the length. Some of this is my personal fitting preference for t-shirt shoulders.
2. I used the bust dart with this pattern and thought it was too high so lowered an inch. Was not the thing to do. Again I think because of the knit weight it pulls darts down. Found this to be true with other knit top patterns with darts.
3. The sleeve length was good.
4. This pattern is drafted with forward shoulders and because I fit the shoulder point at neck per my sloper then this was perfect for me. I always have to make a FSA. Not with this pattern.
5. I ended up using 5/8 seam allowances for side seams. Pattern was still too big. Pattern calls for 1/4 seam allowances.
6. The front neckline area was too big, I could take up about an inch in the center front area and would probably fit much better.
7. I am not going to give up on this pattern. I think it is really a matter of finding my size using my sloper.
8. The pattern is drafted well in that side seams line up, shoulders seams line up, sleeves are drafted with the right amount of ease.

I now have a new top to sleep in. The fabric is great and feels soft, so will be a nice sleeping top. But the practice and the learning using sloper overlay to me was priceless. Thanks Lynda Maynard.

Sewing today-8-11-07

Wow, I can't believe I have not posted anything this week! Yet, I can. I have had a busy week at work and seems like the evenings have been short once I get home. I only made it to CURVES once this week. Will get myself there sometime today. I did attend ASG meeting Thursday evening and nice to be amongst other sewing enthusiasts. I also purchased another gizmo to play with. Again many ideas of things to do and so little time.

I have been reading reviews at PR this AM. I have not read any one's blogs that I usually read during the week. I glimpsed my feeds at Bloglines and I have a lot I will want to read. That will be later.

DH is at driving school today so I will get in some personal sewing without interruption today. I have started on my Pamela's Pattern knit top. I will post my "fitting" results using the De-Mystifying technique of overlaying sloper on the pattern. I sewed the darts the other morning before going to work. Not much more to do. When I placed that front piece on Alma Marie, my initial thought was this is still going to be big. Will see.

I also have been working on a tutorial on affixing sleeves using the bag a lining technique. Some people have asked me questions about how you do this. It can get confusing but once you master the technique, no more slip stitching the sleeves to the armhole, unless you really like to do that. I have to admit it is hard to put into words what I do and match it to the photos, but I thought it worthwhile to try and post something. I truly believe that I learn a lot about sewing methods from other bloggers and want this to be just a helpful guide.

Going to sewing room now. Later.

Fitting Patterns

I am a huge fan of the fitting techniques found in the "Fit for Real People" book. I use many of them when cutting out new patterns. Yet I am always seeking more knowledge about fitting and open to trying new techniques that give good results.

A month or so ago, I read a book review at Pattern Review about a book on CD called "Demystifying Fit" by Lynda Maynard. In summary it is a book on using your sloper pattern as a guide to adjusting patterns to fit you. I have spent some time reviewing the CD and decided to try this method of fitting patterns.

Yesterday I decided to adjust a t-shirt pattern I recently purchased called Pamela's Pattern. Using the patterns suggestion for deciding size, I traced a medium through shoulders, arms tapering to large at under arm through bust to waist to hip. Per the CD, you take and trace your sloper pattern onto vinyl sheet. Vinyl thickness being similar to a shower curtain. I purchased a shower curtain liner in clear vinyl and used that to trace my sloper onto. I used Sharpie pens for the tracing. I use my Pattern Master Boutique sloper pattern.

You then begin adjusting with the back pattern piece because that is the easiest to adjust. The basic premise is that you adjust length first, then circumference. This is the same with FFRP techniques also. Lynda's premise is you fit from waist to shoulder point first. Once the length is adjusted, which for me, meant reducing this length for this pattern, you then deal with shoulder slope, then circumference. You need to make notes of your length adjustments for the back piece as you will need to do those for the front. You then do the front adjustments, starting with shoulder point to waist. Hopefully you get the gist of this operation.

Once you make pattern adjustments then you are to make a muslin. Additional tweaks may be necessary.

What I accomplished yesterday was to adjust the pattern pieces. I am now ready to cut out the pattern. I am using a knit fabric that is a good quality but one that the reality of the knit did not meet my expectations as I thought it would. What I saw on the computer monitor and what is reality is a bit off. I won't fret if I ruin this knit.

From this fitting method yesterday, it did confirm what some said about this particular pattern on PR, that it runs large. I discovered the medium in the upper area was large and could have traced a small. That did not match up with the instructions and sizing for this pattern per designer's recommendation.

More on this later.