Tuesday, June 29, 2010

Started work on Lutterloh pattern

Today DH had to take care of some personal business and thus I had free time after work to sew.  First I stopped at Panera Bread for one of their great salads.  Then after getting home and getting into shorts and t-shirt I began sewing on the Lutterloh top. 

The knit I am using is rather lightweight and also rather fiddly.  The top has two tucks and one dart in the center at the neckline.  When adding a FBA to this top I removed the resulting side dart and moved it to the tuck at the neckline.  I was concerned when I sewed the tuck and dart that I had potentially made a mistake.  After attaching the front sleeves, I held the top up and I think that I am okay with the tuck and dart take up.  If not it can be easily adjusted.

That is as far as I got. Yet it was nice to have a sewing moment or two without interruption and after working all day.  I took this shot of the top using my cell phone.

Question regarding "Fitting Pattern" post

Taken from comment section on article I wrote on Fitting Patterns back in August 2007.  Can't believe that it was three years ago!!
"kathleen said...

People have misread what I've said before so I know this can happen, but did she really say this?

"Lynda's premise is you fit from waist to shoulder point first."

Could it have been shoulder to waist first? I mean, did she say to start fitting by moving up from the waist or going down from the shoulder? I would consider this a big deal.


kathleen said...


I don't mean to be a pain in the butt but I've returned several times to see if my question has been clarified. The answer to this question would tell me whether I should get this item or give it a pass (people ask for my opinion on this stuff all the time). I'd write you directly but I don't have your email address. I am hoping you can find the time to respond when you have a moment in your busy day. Thanks so much. "

Kathleen, I read your earlier comment and put aside to answer.  Then I forgot about it, I apologize.  After receiving your second comment, I pulled out the book on De-Mystifying Fit by Lynda Maynard. On page 6 of her book, she states "Start with the pattern back because it is flat and torso proportions are easy to see.  Align the sloper onto the pattern, matching the waist and center back.  The length proportions are the first ones to address.....Have a look at the overall length from waist to neck/shoulder area, nothing the shoulder point."

On page 81 she is discussing a blouse pattern, which a person she is working with for fitting examples in this book, has selected.  She states "begin with the blouse back as always.  Align the center back at the waist level."  She then points out several differences regarding the person's sloper and the blouse pattern she chose.  She then focuses on  how much length from the person's waist to her neck/shoulder level and how this person's shoulders are very square compared to the shoulder slope of the pattern.

So she is stating that she starts at the waist and works up to the shoulder.  Hope this answers your questions!

Sunday, June 27, 2010

Busy time in the sewing room

I finally completed the draft of the Lutterloh top. I then decided to pin fit Butterick 5219 also. I made the usual adjustments for this pattern that I make for all. I also added an inch for bust adjustment.

I laid out the fabric for the Lutterloh pattern. It is now cut out and ready to go. This is knit fabric that I acquired from Lucy's Fabrics earlier this year. I liked the feel of it that I ordered two other knit fabrics from her before she closed out her fabric offerings.

The knit for the Butterick top is red, black and white. This is fabric I acquired from Fabric.com a year or two ago. I am making these casual tops for my upcoming vacation and a general need for some casual tops to wear this summer.

Check the work in progress photo in the upper right hand corner to see what the fabric I cut out looks like and to get a view of the Butterick pattern.

Saturday, June 26, 2010

Tracing

I began to trace the Lutterloh pattern you see in the Work in Progress photo. The first tracing did not work out well. I was not true to the system and thus the first pattern was just not right. So I then retraced the upper bodice pieces since those were the ones that I used my upper bust measurement to trace and not the bust as per the system's method.

The second tracing resulted in my making an error in the tracing of the front upper bodice piece. I misread the numbers that you use as a guide to draft the pattern. So the third one has been traced but I lost my energy and my legs were hurting from standing so long. It was time to take a break. Tomorrow I will try to finish the tracing and pin fit the pattern.

I have so many other patterns I want to sew. Yet I want to learn more about this system and to learn requires spending time working with the system.

Later.

Wednesday, June 23, 2010

Wearing what I make

Most everyone likes to see sewn garments when you are wearing it; I know I do.

I decided to wear my new top and skirt to work yesterday. I had to attend an executive committee meeting with our board of directors. I thought this was appropriate for wearing all day and for early evening meeting. I was right!

This is a great knit fabric, soft but with some body to it. It truly passed the wearability factor. One added touch I did to the top was to tack down the back of the collar to the back neck seam. This kept the back collar in place better, aiding the drape of the cowl neck collar.

Here are a couple more views


The top will work with several skirts that I have in the closet, as well as with some pants! I see a few more of these tops in my future.

Tuesday, June 22, 2010

Next up-Lutterloh Knit Top

I bought the Lutterloh pattern system on eBay many months ago, perhaps now over a year. I attempted to make one top that actually turned out pretty good. I did not complete it as it was just a muslin to test the actual fit using only the bust and hip measurements per their system.

I am still intrigued by the system; yet I continue to use already drafted patterns. I went to their website and purchased a few supplements. These are 14 to 15 new patterns that come out quarterly. There was a top and dress that I liked and was noted that it can work for knits as well.

So Sunday evening I started the process of drafting the pattern for the top. I did some more work on it last night. I have to work late tonight so not sure that I will get to do any more with the drafting today. I will scan and post the top that I am making.

Sunday, June 20, 2010

Project finished, starting new ones


As you can see the KS top and Loes Hinse skirt are complete. I was able to finish it this AM. I had planned to do a stretch roll hem on the flounce part of the skirt, but my serger just would not cooperate. Both pieces were sewn with the serger. I used my sewing machine to stitch the armhole darts.

The top and skirt hems completed on my Janome Coverpro coverstitch machine. I have not used that much lately and it sewed like a charm.

I love this fabric. Here lately everything I seem to be making is black, brown and green. This has a little gray also with cream.

Here are a few more shots of the top-----

Close up of the cowl neck.

Full view.


I had planned to make is sleeveless but I did not use the sleeveless front and back pieces. I then took the sleeve pattern and shortened the sleeves for summer.

Friday, June 18, 2010

Family weekend

Not much in the way of sewing tomorrow. We are visiting my DH's niece and her family. They have a new pool and wanted to have us over for fish fry, swimming and just a good time. So we will be traveling to So Boston,VA; almost a two hour drive.

I really love summer. Being outside, not having to wear several layers of clothing, open toed shoes, sandals, flip flops, shorts, etc. It all adds up to a good feeling!

I may get in a few minutes of sewing later this evening. Right now waiting to eat pizza!

Later.

Wednesday, June 16, 2010

Another page

Blogger seems to be offering more options for design. I added another page. You can click on My Pattern Review page and see my links to reviews of patterns at PatternReview.com. The sidebar was getting a little crowded and I thought having its own page was better.

A little sewing-here and there

This morning I had to iron my dress that I was going to wear to work. While waiting for the iron, I decided to hem the KS top as the Coverstitch machine was up and ready to go. A piece of cake-10 minutes and it was done. Pressed the dress, cut off some loose threads and out the door.

I wore the KS dress recently completed with pintuck waist insert. I got several compliments today at work. Wearability factor--on scale of 10, I will give it an 8. I think I can still take it up through the waist area another 1/2 inch. Material is stretch cotton. The bateau neckline I love, but it tends to bunch up in the center front; not a major issue but one that can be corrected by lowering the front area where dress and neckline piece meet.

I started the LH skirt, so front and back are attached. Flounce next, then cover stitch that hem, attach elastic and done. The KS top was completed all on the serger and hemmed on coverstitch machine. Skirt will be the same Easy-peasy. Sometimes you just need that kind of project.

Monday, June 14, 2010

Top almost complete and skirt started

I had planned to make a sleeveless top from the KS pattern but in using the view with the cowl neck, sleeveless was not working well. Not wanting long sleeves, I redrafted the long sleeves to shorter ones. I attached those last evening along with turning up the hem on sleeves and bodice. I then ran into problems with my coverstitch machine. By the time I got that straightened out, it was late and I was rather cranky. It was best not to do anymore on the top at that time.

I did serge the front and back of the LH skirt pattern. This will be a piece of cake to finish. I have to say I really like the look of this fabric. Pictures of the finished garments soon.

Sunday, June 13, 2010

Weekend sewing

I have only been able to sew just a little this weekend. I have been working on the KS top which is going well. If I could just devote all my time to sewing that, it would be complete and actually I could be sewing another one.

All that is left to do is attach the armhole bindings and hem it! I love quick and easy projects every now and then. The skirt should not be too difficult--front, back, flounce, elastic for waist. It is just a matter of time and having it.

I am on to thinking about my next projects. I have a desire to make a cowl neck dress using one of two Vogue patterns. I am leaning toward the Sandra Betzina pattern. I also want to try drafting a Lutterloh pattern for a knit top. I have only made one item from this system and surprisingly it fit fairly well. It was only a muslin just to try and test the fitting of this pattern system.

More later--have to fix breakfast. Eating can be overrated. DH does not agree with me.

Thursday, June 10, 2010

Ramblings

Tomorrow I am in Richmond for business. Twice this week I have been traveling. I was in Danville on Wednesday visiting our sister organization and providing some consultation to the staff. Tomorrow is state committee meeting. I wish I had some time to stop and shop but will want to get back home to begin my weekend.

I am glad I have a knit top and skirt cut out and ready to sew this weekend. I will be working on a KS top. The skirt is an old faithful. It is rather basic style but I want to show off the fabric and using a skirt with a lot of seams I think would break up an already busy fabric design.

I have so many sewing projects I want to tackle. I need to make some knit tops for casual wear. My DH and I are actually going to go to the beach for summer vacation this year. I have been looking at some nice patterns that could be used as a swimsuit cover up as well as a few sundresses.

Tuesday, June 08, 2010

Semiside view


Semiside view
Originally uploaded by Danvillegirl
Here is a somewhat side view of the dress. The shoes I am wearing are a metallic brown with black toe tips. Perfect for this dress. These are Ferragamo's purchased from a local thrift store for the American Cancer Society.

Back view


Back view
Originally uploaded by Danvillegirl
Here is a back view. I like the dress with the self fabric sash. I have to say though I could have made the ties a little longer. Fabric is from JoAnn's.

Front view 1


Front view 1
Originally uploaded by Danvillegirl
Here is the completed Vogue dress. I am wearing this to work today! I don't like the look on my face, camera was giving me issues when I was taking these with tripod.

Sideview KS dress 2


Sideview KS dress 2
Originally uploaded by Danvillegirl
Here is a side view of the dress.

Back view KS dress


Back view KS dress
Originally uploaded by Danvillegirl
Here is the back view of the dress. I am not standing straight so the right side is puckered.

Front view KS dress


Front view KS dress
Originally uploaded by Danvillegirl
As requested, here is photo shot of the KS dress being worn.

Sunday, June 06, 2010

Another dress completed!

I am excited that I completed the Vogue dress that I cut out last weekend along with a KS top and Loes Hinse skirt. I have not had a chance to take photos of the finished dress, but I am so pleased that it was a quick and easy dress to make. It has a front, back and front/back facing pattern pieces. No zippers, no buttons, no darts, etc. Just pull it over your head, tie the self fabric belt and go.

Last weekend I make pattern adjustments to the pattern. One was a FBA using a technique I read about on Pattern Review and the reviewer called it a "cheater's FBA". She obtained the information from a Burda Plus pattern magazine. I love it and for a dress like this one, it worked perfect. I also made a swayback adjustment.

The fabric proved to be very easy to work with. I had some reservations about it as the wrong side is very satiny looking. I had no problems with it slipping as I thought I might. The negative or pattern dislike was the upper back was very full/wide and I ended up taking 1 1/4 inch seam allowance from upper back to waist. I also did not follow their instructions for attaching the facing. I used Claire Schaeffer's "All In One Facing" technique which eliminates the need for hand sewing.




I like this pattern so much that I am ready to cut out another one and sew it up. I already have selected the fabric-a border print fabric I acquired from Fabric.com in March.


I have a KS top pattern cut out and have cut out a skirt from a TNT Loes Hinse skirt pattern. I used this fabric for the top and skirt. I cannot remember for the life of me where I acquired it. But I love the feel of this knit and believe it will prove to be easy to work with.
I will try to post photos of me wearing the newly completed dress later this evening. Now off to fix dinner.

Patterns for Sale Price

A person enquired about the price of my patterns listed on the second page that are for sale. I am asking $4.00 each which will include shipping and handling to those living within the United States; for shipping to Canada I am charging $5.00. Sorry no international shipping!

Just click on Patterns for Sale at the top right under the Blog title to go to link to those patterns.

August Sewing Simplicity 7295

 I am not doing well as a blogger. I have been working on this project since July 30. Today, I finally finished it. It has been a stop-and-g...