Patterns in the mail

I am trying to stop buying patterns.  I have way more than I will probably sew.  Perhaps time to have a pattern give away again.

Here's what came in the mail Saturday

I have one more but for whatever strange reason I am not finding the photo on my computer.  Maybe that it did not save right.  Updated to Windows 10 has given me some issues with Picasa.    All patterns purchased were McCall's.  The missing one is a knit top also.

Some Sewing

I had some time this afternoon to do a little sewing.  I did not actually sew anything together yet.  I needed to get my serger set to use on the two fabrics for the Paulina Top.  

The red solid fabric is a rayon knit and rather lightweight.  I had a hard time getting the differential and stitch tension correct.  I am not totally happy with how it is set now; it will do.

The lace knit has a very open weave to it.

I tested the use of the serger for edge finishing and decided that I did not like how that looked.  I decided to use fusible bias tape. I think that this secures the edges.

Next step is to attach the front and back of the lace fabric at the side seams.  I will then use the bias fusible tape to secure those edges and then turn the edges for hemming.  This fabric, which is the overlay for my top, will then be attached to the solid red fabric.

Up dates on progress later.

Fall is approaching

These came home with me Saturday!  I thought about the Vogue September issue earlier in the week, think it would make its appearance soon.  I was really surprised to find it at Walmart on Saturday.  While waiting in line I saw it and grabbed the last one on display in my line.  Also picked up InStyle also.

I have yet to open the Vogue issue yet.  I like to savor that one and take time to peruse it from cover to cover and then do it again.  I have enjoyed InStyle and I am about half way through it.  I have stuck post-it tabs on several pages.  DH gives me strange looks.

Next project-Itch to Stitch

I have acquired several independent patterns for the past couple of years and have made up a few. My most recent was the Kirsten Kimono Top and made two of those with good success.

I am now working on another indie pattern, the Paulina Top from Itch to Stitch.

I have prepared fabric I purchased from Vogue Fabrics early this year for this top, washing and drying it last night.

The black, gray, red and white fabric is a knit lace fabric and I wanted that to be the underlying fabric, yet the lace is very open and will not work for me as that underlying fabric.  So I will make it the top fabric and the red will show through.

I printed the pattern pieces.  The one thing I truly like about this pattern is that it contains layers which allow you to print only the size(s) you need instead of all the sizes making it more cumbersome to trace your size.  I printed only the 12/14 sizes.  All the taping was put together last night and tracing was started and now completed.

I pin fitted the traced pattern pieces and determined that I only need to make a swayback adjustment for the bodice pieces.  The sleeves with this pattern are very full.  I don't care for all of that fullness. If you look at the above photo of the top, the sleeves on the model are very full looking also.  I took out 1.25 inches from the width of the sleeves from under arm to hem.  I also reduced the length by 1.5 inches.

Off to cut out the fabric, set up machines and sew.  More information to follow.

M7131 Passes Wearability

As planned I wore my new culottes made with McCall's 7131 yesterday to work.  Let me say I love these culottes.  I normally don't wear long or full skirts because I am short/vertically challenge/petite. After seeing and reading others who are of similar height and wearing culottes that are similar in style to this pattern, I decided to give them a try.

Even my most outspoken critic of some of my garments-my DH-he liked them.  He happened to be home at the time I was getting ready for work so he became my photographer instead of my usual gorilla pod!

I received lots of compliments from employees and several were surprised to learn that it was not a full skirt.   The culottes were comfortable to wear standing or sitting and wrinkling was much less than I thought it might be.  I do think that I will try inserting two 1/2 inch elastic pieces instead of the large size I used on these. I think it may be a little more comfortable. Without further comment here is how I wore them. The tank and cardigan are RTW from Talbot's.

Hands in pockets, love the pockets

Back view

Not a skirt!

Semi side view

I will make another pair soon!

M7131 complete

Yeah!  I finally completed a project.  Some days I just don't get enough sewing time and today I was bound and determined to complete the culottes.  I want to wear them to work this week as I have a perfect top and cardi to wear with them.

I will post photos wearing this week; until then, hanging on hanger will have to do.

M7131  Hanging-front view

Side pockets

Back elastic using 1 1/2 inch elastic

I realized that I only shortened these one inch prior to cutting them out; in my earlier post I said two inches.  I really should and will take off another inch.  I ended up cutting off one inch before hemming them at 1.5 inches.  I am truly vertically challenged.  I am 5'2.5" these days with no shoes on.

I really like the feel of these.  I can put my hands in my pocket.  I have plenty of crotch room when sitting and the elastic waist in the back makes for a good fit as well.

More later.

Culottes

This is the pattern I am working on

From McCall's website

I cut a size 16 and added an inch to the waist line.  I actually cut off the section from the pattern c/d length to e as I will never ever be tall enough for that length.  I also shortened that length by 2 inches. The length of the culottes at this time before hemming are longer than you are seeing on the model above.  My intent is to have them fall right below the calf.  

Instead of using 4 one-fourth wide elastic, I chose to use an 1 1/2 inch wide elastic.  Someone in an earlier post comment suggested two 1/2 inch elastic pieces; I may consider that if I make these again.

After inserting the elastic in the back waistband, I basted the side seams for fit and found that I did not need the extra inch at the waist and actually I basted an extra inch from waist to hemline.  As I noted above there is a lot of fabric with these culottes and it looked like the fabric was consuming me.

The fabric I am using is a rayon challis and it is perfect for this pattern.  You really need a fabric with drape.

I am going to have to shortened these or take a deeper hem for these to be the right length for me.

Hope to have some photos to share shortly.

Simplicity and Butterick Pattern sale

Earlier this week I was in JoAnn's to purchase threads, zippers and such.  Simplicity patterns were on sale for $1 and Butterick and McCall's for $1.99.  I had a few patterns on my wish list and decided to take advantage of the sale.

Here's what came home with me

The Butterick patterns are ones in the new fall pattern category.  I am not overly excited about any of the new patterns, none really gave me the WOW feeling when looking at them.  Some seem like versions already released but presented with different fabrics making them to appear new.

Of those patterns the two Butterick patterns above did speak to me the most.

I have not gotten on the kimono jacket wagon yet either; it does have some appeal to me.  Decided to purchase the Simplicity version of this style.  I did like the top pattern also by Simplicity and for a $1 worth the price to buy.

I am planning some sewing this weekend, planning to complete the culotte project and then turning my thinking toward transitional sewing for season change.  Later!!!

Bad Blogger

Lately I have not taken nor truly had the time to write a post for the blog.  I seem to have too many projects on my plate at the time and everything is juggling for my attention.

I gave considerable attention to sewing most all weekend and made good progress with the culottes. The back waistband is a casing in which you are to stitch 1/4 inch rows to insert 1/4 elastic.  I find that to be pretty tedious so decided to insert one inch wide elastic.  I lost the elastic guide pattern piece to determine the length of elastic to cut. I have yet to find it and it is amazing how I can lose one small pattern piece.  (Urgggggg)

I decided I would just measure my back waist measurement from side to side and add a little to that to allow for stitching the ends down at casing edge to hold it in place.  The back waistband casing is roughly 32 inches in length so there would be quite a bit of elastic stretching  if using my back waist measurement which is smaller than front waist measurement from side to side.

If you have any suggestions for doing this differently, please leave a comment for another method. Or if you have this pattern and have the elastic guide pattern piece I would like to ask if you would look at it and tell me what the elastic length is for the elastic for a size 16 waist.   Thanks!

That's all for now.  More info and photos to follow.

Current project

I spent the weekend on pattern fitting and cutting out fabric.  I decided to try this culotte pattern from McCall's.  I am using rayon challis fabric acquired from Fabric Mart in 2013.  I remember buying several yards of various colors and designs.

I recently purchased a paisley rayon challis from Julie's Pick Swatch Club.  I decided that I would save that for the next pair after perfecting the fit with this pair.