Perfect button, imperfect buttonhole

After a busy day grocery shopping and running all over the place trying to find other household goods, I was excited to get to sewing again.  I have the perfect covered button and only needed to make the perfect buttonhole on thick faux suede fabric.

I used a Teflon foot for the sewing of this jacket; worked great.  Then I changed to my sensor buttonhole foot and found in testing the right buttonhole that this was going to drag on the fabric and could not get a decent buttonhole.  I tried using the Teflon foot and though gliding over the fabric when attempting to sew the other side of the buttonhole, it got hung up every time after sewing the top bar tack part of the buttonhole.

I remembered that my machine had come with "self-adhesive" glide tape--Teflon tape.  It was perfectly cut to use on buttonhole foot.  Unfortunately the self-adhesive material was only working on one side not the other side.  Trying temporary spray to affix that one piece did not work well.  I test drove this and found it would not sew the buttonhole well as the piece just would not stay.

Another issue was the need to change the needle.  I then tried the Teflon foot again; no go.  So I turned to sewing sources and Google and found a product called Foot Magic.  To make a long story short, I ordered two packets at $5.00 a piece on Amazon and hopefully will arrive the latter part of next week.

So the jacket is almost complete.  I am now moving on to my next project, using some faux Sherpa fabric.  Normally I would move on to a quick project but why not continue on a roll of working with challenging fabric.  I am going to make a vest using Kwik Sew 3172.  I have traced the pattern pieces and plan to pin fit this afternoon and cut it out before stopping to watch the Super Bowl.  Neither team is "my" special team but I am pulling for the Ravens!!!

Without Further Ado……

Here is the Sandra Betzina Vogue pattern, faux leather and Sherpa jacket.

After coming home from work yesterday evening and changing into comfy clothes I decided it was time to reveal the completed jacket. 

The final steps were tweaking the princess seams. I then trimmed each of the exposed Sherpa seams to between 3/8 to 1/4 inches and then stitched down the center of each seam to help keep them open.  This was suggested in the pattern instructions.  I probably could have used a different method to construct these seams; yet this method assured a better fit.

I did not insert pockets, there is just too much going on with this fabric and I would not really use the pockets.

I turned up 1 1/4 inch hem at the bottom and after stitching that I trimmed the hem by about 3/4 inch all around to eliminate some of the bulk.  This faux leather is thick.

Here is a view of the back: 

Here is how the jacket looks when partially unzipped:

You can also see the zipper in the sleeve in the shot above also.  Having made a KS jean jacket with zipper in the sleeve, I prefer their method than this one as you have a placket behind the zipper; this one is stitched into the sleeve seam.

I will write a more formal review for PR soon.  I do recommend this pattern and will definitely consider making another non-faux anything for the next one.

Soon to see

I finally completed the jacket!!!!!!  I took some photos of it hanging with my iPad and just did not have time yesterday to post.  I will also take some photos of me wearing it. 

My DH saw it hanging yesterday afternoon and immediately commented on how well it turned out.  He had seen some work in progress and I could tell he had some concerns about the outcome. 

I am now ready to move on to some very instant gratifications projects.  More later.

I'm dreaming of

sewing something else besides the Vogue faux leather jacket.  I am down to the last few areas to stitch. Then hem and trim those seams.  I only got about two hours of sewing time yesterday and I had a real challenge with sewing the collar and the facings to the jacket.  My sewing machine is getting tired of sewing this fabric!

Attaching the collar was actually a breeze; the collar pattern is drafted very well and all markings etc lined up as it was suppose to.  The challenge came with when sewing the facings to the neckline.  I am now sewing three, thick layers of fabric;  I am talking THICK fabric.  One issue was my needle by this time is dull and the thread kept breaking.  Changing the needle of course helped a lot, but we are still sewing thick fabric and the walking foot was not "walking" over the fabric well.   At this point I adjusted the presser foot presser which helped some.  Then I get to sewing over the shoulder seams which in those areas made the sewing even more a challenge.  All of this took about an hour.  By then I was tired and was rather late.  I decided to stop there until tomorrow.  I could feel myself getting flustered and likely to make more mistakes.

All I have left to do now is sew the facings down the front.  Make a lower back adjustment, hem the jacket with the machine and hem the sleeves, trim those seams.

All in all this has been a challenge to me and actually one that I have learned from.

I am so ready after this to tackle some knit tops, a few blouses and some more skirts.  I also want to make a cape.  I have some great fabric purchased over the past four years or so that would make up into a nice winter cape.  So I am dreaming of some new challenges and new clothes for the future.

I have vacation time coming up during the Christmas holidays and my sewing plans are ambitious ones.  I will get several complete I am sure.

In dreaming of some other sewing projects, I have burned up the Internet of late with some fabric purchases.  More show and tell later.  I am off to sew now.

SB Vogue jacket

SB Vogue jacket, a photo by Danvillegirl on Flickr.

This is still a work in progress. Sleeves inserted. This was a difficult task given the thickness of fabric and the nature of the fabric. When fitting is finalized the seams will be trimmed to 1/4 inch.

More progress

I wanted the jacket to challenge me, particularly because I am sewing on faux leather.  Believe me this has been a bear of a challenge.  The fabric is thick to begin with and when sewing through two thicknesses it is rather difficult and sewing very slowly is the best way to handle this.

I have switched back and forth between walking foot, zipper foot and Teflon foot. The walking foot has been a huge success in sewing layers together.

I just completed inserting the sleeves which was the most difficult sewing thus far.  Photos to follow.

Start of the Holiday parties

After a very stressful week at work, the ending of the week has begun for me the start of various holiday parties.  My Rotary club kicked off the week with an event Thursday night, which because of work I was not able to attend.  Our agency had its annual meeting which became close to a four hour event.

Today I will be going to our annual ASG Holiday luncheon at a local country club.  I had truly hoped that I could complete my faux shearling jacket in time for the event; I realized Tuesday evening that I would not meet the deadline unless I spent time into the wee hours working on it.  Unfortunately I am way past the age when I could go to bed at 2 AM and get up at 5AM to get ready to work a full 9+ hour workday.  Accepting this reality, I will present my jacket at next month's show and tell.

The real fun for me with this event is the opportunity to enjoy time with people who love to sew, eat great food and have a genuinely good time.

I will say that my jacket is coming along nicely.  I have inserted the zippers into each sleeve.  I had to cut out another set of sleeves; fortunately I had enough fabric to do that!  In reading the reviews on PR it was noted that the sleeves ran small.  Based on the measurements on the pattern piece, I thought the size I cut would work nicely.  NOT!  If you wear say a heavier sweater under the jacket the sleeves will be very tight fitting and I believe uncomfortable.  I think some of the tightness also relates to the thickness of the fabric I am using, as faux shearling is thick.  Having to re-cut another set of sleeves created a slow down in the sewing momentum also.

I eliminated the back belt as it looked wide on me, rather bulky and unflattering.  I will adjust the back to fit closer through the various back seams.

Enough for now, have to go now to get ready for today's luncheon.  Later!

Back view

Back view, a photo by Danvillegirl on Flickr.

Here is view of back. The exposed seams will be trimmed to 1/4 once all fitting is finalized.

Jacket progress

I made good progress on the Sandra Betzina's Vogue jacket pattern over the past two days. All the seams have been sewn
after basting and fitting. I took a 3/4 seam for the shoulder seams. I did not take my usual 1/4 inch horizontal tuck in the upper chest area. I will probably take deeper seams in the front seams; this is the great thing about princess seams, the ability to make easy fitting adjustments.

After my search for the perfect gray zipper, I decided to go with the brown. The medium gray zippers were a good blend with the gray fur, but the metal zipper teeth were just too much of a contrast. I have stitched one side of the zipper and that is where I stopped the sewing for the evening.

Will upload photos soon.

SOS

I need your help finding a separating zipper, 20 to 22 inch length, in dark gray.  I am getting ready to start making this jacket.

The fabric I am going to use is a faux leather/shearling/sherpa type that has a contrasting dark grey fur that will show in the exposed seams and of course the collar.  The right side is a golden brown shade.  I have a brown separating zipper with metal and molded brown zipper teeth, but it is a dark brown.  I went to Zipperstop and found the limited selection of colors which I can easily get at JoAnn's. 

Your help is most appreciated. 

Lining pinned and ready

The lining to the Butterick skirt is pinned and ready to attach.  All I need is few moments of sewing time. 

My next garment is going to be a jacket, this one from Sandra Betzina's Today's Fit pattern line.

Photo from Vogue Patterns website

I purchased some lovely faux leather/Sherpa fabric from EOS.  I was going to use a KS pattern that I made a jacket from before.  DH was really pushing me to make this one, which is rather unusual in that he normally does not suggest patterns for me to make that often.  I need to get started with this as I plan to have it completed to wear in our ASG Annual Fashion held at our annual holiday event.

I have some vacation time coming up around Thanksgiving so will have some extra sewing time, I hope, during that week.

More later.