Sunday, September 14, 2014

Here's My Method (Photo Intense)

I thought I would take some photos of my sewing sequence when attaching center front bodice and bodice side seams to center front and side front bottoms.  I have posted before that my way is quite different from the pattern instructions.

Here is a shot of the pattern instructions:
Here's what I do:
I will attached the center front bodice to the center front bottom.
Next I attached the side front bodice to the side front bottom.
I then pin the side fronts to the center fronts.
I then baste right above the seams that connects top to bottom and continue a basting stitch a short distance below.
After basting this, I turned the garment to the right side to make sure the seams align. From the photo below you can see that on the first attempt did not.
Because it did not align I adjust and based again. Though this is an additional step or two, it saves some time in stitching and it it assures proper alignment.
I am then able to stitch the seam with everything lining up as it should.

Here is a view of the side fronts attached to the center fronts.
I prefer doing it this way because, for me, if I need to adjust the fit through the center front and side front areas I only have to remove stitching from one long seam. Those are usually my fitting adjustments. I would like to take credit for this sewing method, I can't. This sewing process was from an article in THREAD magazine a few years ago.

I started doing it this way only a couple of years ago; some habits are hard to quit.  I was not taught this in home economics and pretty much always followed the instructions in the pattern.  Rarely did this method appear in the instructions.

V9017 In Progress

I have had some good sewing opportunities this weekend and making great progress on my class reunion dress. Here are a couple of shots of the dress as a work in progress:

Center and side front pieces 
Front and back attached at shoulders basted side seams

Back view work in progress

Thursday, September 11, 2014

Best Laid Plans....

did not work out on Sunday as I hoped.

I did spend time several mornings this week before work making a pattern adjustment here and there. I am pleased that I have one more adjustment to make and I will be ready to cut out the fabric!!  I am feeling a time crunch here, reunion is fast approaching; it is 2 weeks and counting.

I have not finished the hems on the McCall's dress which was a potential back up and may still be.
Thank goodness tomorrow is Friday and the weekend is here.

Sunday, September 07, 2014

Vogue 9017

I began making pattern adjustments this a.m. (click title for link to view pattern).  Recently my sway back adjustments have proved to be less than what I need. Today when pin fitting this pattern I pinned in an inch for this adjustment. This seemed to address my fitting issue. Other adjustments include my usual forward shoulder, shortening the length between waist and hip, and will need a slight FBA as this has bodice based on cup size.

I had to stop and do some work on spreadsheets for my job. It is the start of budget season and when this occurs things get a little crazy at work. This also means it overflows into my personal time; since my job pays for my sewing habit one must make sacrifices.

My plan is to complete the fitting adjustments today. Perhaps even to begin to cut out the fabric. I am washing the black knit that I recently ordered to go with the brown and black knit.

I hope your sewing weekend has been productive.

Catching Up

I have been missing in action of late. It is always fun to have a holiday and have only 4 workdays. By Friday, I realized I had crammed 5 days of work into 4.

I have made a few tweaks to the McCall's dress and will finish it soon. The knit for this dress functions different than the scuba knit for the first dress. All in all I do like this dress and perhaps I am being somewhat OCD about the fit.

I finally took pictures of the Kwik Sew top. These were taken late in the day yesterday after grocery shopping and doing some other around the town errands.

The knit used for this top was in my stash and it is a cotton blend, very much like a sweatshirt fabric. Best worn for cooler weather.

More updates later.

Tuesday, September 02, 2014

Thanks for voting!

The votes thus far for which dress to make for 45th Class Reunion shows V9017 as the most recommended. Thanks for taking the time to vote.  I had this one as my first choice followed by the McCall's dress.

I just got the new Vogue Pattern Magazine and this dress is showcased with the upper bodice pieces being one fabric and the lower bodice pieces being a solid black which gives me something else to contemplate.  My plan was to use the brown/black fabric for the center piece and the black for outer pieces.  Decisions, decisions.

Back to work today!

Monday, September 01, 2014

Labor Day Holiday Sewing Update

Though I did not complete everything that I wanted to I did make good progress. The Kwik Sew raglan tee top is complete and fits well. My next version I will shorten about an inch.

The black garment next to the coral top is the almost completed McCall's dress. I made quite a few fitting adjustments as the ponte knit did not quite draped as the scuba knit did in my 1st version. I added a center back seam which gave me some additional fitting options; I still included back darts as well.

There were a few other fitting adjustments I made. I reduced the length of the bust dart, I changed the 5/8 sleeve seam to 1/2 inch as they were a little snug. I used bias binding for the neckline as my attempt to add a neckband did not produce the results I wanted.

I made a really stupid error in cutting out the pattern. I cut the front bodice longer than the back requiring shortening the front. I need to purchase hem tape so that I can turn up a modest hem.

I also cleaned up the sewing room, particularly the long table on which my coverstitch and serger machines sit. I also have a standalone Janome embroidery machine on this table which I cannot use easily without moving the other machines around. I am trying to figure how to rearrange the sewing room so that I could put another small table in the room and put the embroidery machine on it.

I hope you had a nice Labor Day holiday for those living in the USA.  Back to work tomorrow.

Thursday, August 28, 2014

The Postman Stopped Here

The postman delivered a package Monday from EOS!----The black ponte knit fabric arrived and it is perfect with the black/brown fabric I ordered previously from EOS.  I knew that it should as I had received swatches that I could match up with the fabric on hand and determined the right weight and black color.  I am so excited to have this so I can start on this project over the long holiday weekend.

I washed and dried the black ponte from Mood to make another black dress using McCall's 6886.  I made this previously using a scuba knit fabric from EOS.  The fit is "perfected" so it should be an easy cut and sew project.  I plan to make the scoop neck version with 3/4 sleeves.

I am still debating on which dress to make for the class reunion event.  I am still stuck on these two three patterns.

The third one from top will require a lining thus more time to sew.  The first two have customized bust sizes thus potentially eliminating a FBA, though because both have princess seams it will be easier to do.


Sunday, August 24, 2014

Raglan Sleeve Top Progress

Today I tackled the Kwik Sew pattern for a raglan sleeve, high scooped neckline. Interestingly this is now an out of print pattern and I would say it's probably a replica of an older version of this top.
"from the Kwik Sew website"

I made View A accept I change the hemline and used View B's hemlineAs usual  Kwik Sew pattern was fairly true to size, perhaps I should say true to my expectations of size using KS patterns. I made my usual adjustments: sway back, 3/8 inch horizontal tuck in upper front and back bodice, shortened sleeve length by 2 inches and it was still too long so while cutting it out I reduced it another inch.

The fit of this pattern was much better than my recent attempts using Burda, New Look, Kitschy Coo and Textile Studio. I probably should have just used this right off but it's nice to try other pattern sources; sometimes they work and sometimes they don't!

Here is a photo shot of the top in progress:

I have pinned in the 3/8 inch hem. After completing the bodice hem I need to hem the sleeves and I'm ready to go. There was still some pooling in the back so I have now adjusted the pattern taking out another half inch above the waistline.

I have not used Kwik Sew patterns recently as much as I have in the past. Since Kwik Sew was purchased by McCall's the patterns have changed some; they are still printed on white paper though thinner paper. With this particular pattern there were no finished bust, waist or hip measurements. Let me correct that statement; there was a measurement on the back pattern piece that said bust and hip measurements were XX  and noted per size.  Really posting this information on the back pattern piece and stating that the bust and the hip are the same size, interesting! The sleeve was extremely long; some of the older patterns had varying length lines for the sleeve. This one did not. I had to take measurements both for width as well as length. Some changes are good, some are not.

The really good thing is that this top fits me the best and a few small tweaks will make it perfect!


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