New Look top

Sunday AM:  I have almost finished the New Look top.  I have a few fitting adjustments to make at the neckline.  I made a pattern adjustment to that area prior to cutting out.

I raised the neckline an inch on the pattern pieces.  It is still rather wide; I pinned and will baste a deeper seam at the front and back sleeve to bodice seam lines and if necessary will take a deeper seam at center back.  I basted the side seams at 5/8 inch but may have to reduce that to 3/8.  The pattern notes 3/8 seam allowance at neckline and overall instructions state seam allowance is 5/8 unless noted on the pattern.

I did not make a FBA and cut at size 16  from underarm to bodice bottom.  There were no finished measurements for waist and hip printed on the pattern piece only for bust; I went by the sizes noted on the envelope which are close to mine and even a little larger.

Other adjustments made were swayback and horizontal 3/8 tuck in upper chest and back area to reduce the underarm length from arm join.  This was done on the sleeve as well.

 Sunday Afternoon: I worked on the top making fitting adjustments, the neckline was just huge.  I should have taken a photo of how it looked and how it will look. I was not camera ready.  So the next best thing----
This is the front view with sleeves attached and side seams basted. 

I am using the metallic side for the bodice and the other side for the sleeves. I have not decided what side to use for the neckband.

When I stitched the sleeves to the bodice front and back, I serged them at 5/8 inch. I then basted another 5/8 inch starting at neckline tapering to original stitching about 1/2 half way down the sleeve seam line.  I did the same on the back.  After trying on again, I ended up basting a full inch at neckline and then tapering to 5/8 inch ending at original stitching close to the end of the underarm on the front and back sleeves.  There is center back seam and I basted about 5/8 from top to about 2 inches deep before tapering to original stitching.  It was amazing how these adjustments made the neckline fit much closer and better. 
I then marked fabric close to basting stitches so I can remove then and then restitch.   Obviously this pattern was not drafted for a petite person.  I used a 14 at the neckline as I do with most all patterns. This time that was not the right size for this neckline style on me. Even raising the neckline about an inch did not take into account how wide this was going to be.

The other fitting adjustment will be to reduce the side seams to 3/8 inch instead of 5/8; that is a personal wearing preference with this knit fabric.  More updates to follow.

 


Comments

  1. The neckline is insanely wide on that top. My second one is borderline unwearable :/

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. If I had not made this adjustments it would have been falling off my shoulder, not the look I was going for.

      Delete
  2. I bought this pattern too.. and the tissue fit was falling off my shoulder too.. Really big neckline..

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I cannot believe how much I had to take this up. I first sewed 5/8 seam allowance and I have not taken it in another inch on the front and back!!

      Delete

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