How Do I Dislike You-- Let Me Count the Ways

I am referring to McCall's 7020.

As I noted in an earlier post this pattern has a lot of ease. As a result of reviewing the ease measurements on the back of the pattern, I decided to go with the small size. I ended up using the extra small through the shoulders and the armscye.  I then decided to transition to medium from the bust down and then decided that the small size would be sufficient.

Here are all the issues I found today when I sewed and basted the pattern for fitting:

  1. The front neckline is lower than I anticipated and it was looser and stood away from my body at the front.
  2. Even though the ease measurement at the bust area was 44 inches I found I could have used a small horizontal adjustment at the bust line or have added length at the front.
  3. The back is very full and knew that it was going to be requiring a deeper center back seam. Even with the deeper center back seam there is still quite a bit of fullness. Sway back adjustment is easy to fix due to the center back seam.
  4. I knew from the measurement posted on sleeve pattern piece was that they may be too narrow. I used the medium size and that was tight throughout even at the wrist. I have a very small wrist and so for this to be tight through that area was surprising.
  5. The sleeve length was also very long and I reduced it by an inch and a fourth before cutting it out. Even with that adjustment I would need to hem it another 2 inches.
  6. I adjusted the front neckline by taking about 1/2 inch wedge or dart at the neckline tapering to nothing at the center seam.
I have decided to set this pattern aside for now. It is somewhat salvageable but I am disappointed about all the necessary adjustments to make this work. I have other top patterns I want to pursue and I have some top patterns that fit very well, such as the Renfrew top. I planned to make another version of the Renfrew top; I am just trying to decide which fabric I have in my stash that I want to use.

More updates later.


  1. I have noticed the skin tight sleeve trend in RTW, too. My daughter has very thin arms and even she had trouble finding a cardigan that did not have uncomfortably tight sleeves.

  2. I like to feel comfortable moving my arms and not feeling like I have to pull on the sleeves to get them to stay in place.

  3. Oh, it's so frustrating sometimes! Maybe you'll just toss it!

    1. I may end up tossing this top. Yet I have focused on how to fix the pattern for the next one. I remember way back when that I could cut out a pattern, make no adjustments and it would fit right out of the envelope.

  4. I know how you feel. I hate giving up on a pattern, but sometimes you just have to put it aside, and wait for new burst of energy to finish it.

    1. I have thought about how to fix the pattern; I will not waist anymore time on this top though. I think once I make what I know to be additional adjustments I will give it a try. Until then....


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