Sunday, January 08, 2006

What I did thus far this weekend

I have been busy tissue fitting several patterns this weekend, making fitting adjustments and cutting out fabric. Yeah!!! I now have three patterns cut out and ready to go.

I also played around with sewing machine yesterday, late night. I am couching "fun fur" yarns onto ultra sulky solvy in an attempt to make a sewing machine knitted scarf. There are several ideas or methods from doing this in a Sulky Book that I have had for over 18 months. It was shown at our November ASG meeting. Yes wanted to play a little. After I complete a time consuming project like my LH jacket, I like to try something new and what I consider play.

I cut out two knit patterns. One is the Plain and Simple T shirt from HotPatterns. My first attempt was not satisfactory and recognized the need for several adjustments. I redrafted the pattern front piece before but was not real happy with my efforts. I then reviewed Sandra Betzina's Fast Fit for large bust and decided to try her technique which is a variation of the FBA in the Fit For Real People book. I then retraced the front pattern piece and then did a slight FBA using SB's method. I like the look of the new pattern. I used an inexpensive knit fabric, yellow with blue flowers, that I purchased from Walmart. I like the fabric but will not feel bad if this newest version of the P&S T does not work out either. I also lengthened the T. The first one I made just did come to my waist and I am along waisted petite. I think there are sizing issues with these patterns. They are stylish but I am not sure that what they say about the fit is what the reality is. I do know that the pattern pieces do not have all the notches on all the corresponding pattern pieces. For me not a big deal, but for the beginner sewist, this could create issues. I find it a little annoying to pay the price and not get a top quality pattern.

The other knit top is the Kwik Sew 3378 that is getting a lot of reviews on Pattern Review . This is a twist top from knit with a front twist in the bust area and front center seam. KS patterns are a challenge for me from a fitting standpoint. I am now basically tracing a small shoulder and medium arm area then going to large bust. Sometimes this works, sometimes not. In doing this, from time to time, I have had issues with side seams not matching up front to back and has to do with the tracing of a smaller armscye and larger bust. I pretty much remembered to check this with this pattern tracing and good thing I did as back and front side seams were not going to match up at all. I used a matte jersey knit purchased from Hancock Fabrics in early December. It was on sale and I purchased about four yards of it. It is a chocolate brown color and I had in mind another knit top to try from this also.

The third pattern was the Boho-Deluxe Woodstock Tunic pattern, again from Hot Patterns. After tracing the pattern and pinfitting, I made my usual FSA and swayback adjustment. The pinfitting revealed that the shoulders were way to wide and I used the smallest, size 12. I thus did a narrow back adjustment and used the same technique for the front as it was wide in the shoulder and arm area. After doing this it looked like it was going to be a better fit. I felt the bust dart was too long and shortened it. The sleeves required a 1/2 inch adjustment and I have some concerns that they may be to full. I left them as they were and figured I will take deeper seams if necessary. I was disappointed again that the front piece had a notch in the arm area to match up the front sleeve area but the sleeve pattern had no such corresponding marks. Again if you are a beginner you are going to question what is the front or back of the sleeve. Even the instructions for sewing reference notches but there are none on the sleeve. I hope that they, Hot Patterns, will do a quality check of their newer patterns when they release them. This is just not a "good thing" whether you are experienced or not with sewing. If you say they are there, they should be.

The fabric I used for the tunic is faux, soft suede in a golden brown color. I purchased the same fabric with embroidered flowers on it for the outside facing trim that is in the front and back neck area. I will add to the sleeve but don't think that I will do that for the hip area as I am not sure I want to draw attention to the area. I have enough to do so if I change my mind.


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