Pattern drafting with PMB4

I have been using Pattern Master Boutique since early 2001. I have made several jackets, sheath style dresses, tops and skirts using this program. Recently they upgraded the program I purchased the upgrade-PMB4.
Since then, my age and thus my shape and size have changed. So I tweaked my measurements. This new upgrade has some nice new features and I really want to use it again. But dang! I am having a hard time getting a good fit. I spent time last weekend drafting several versions without good results.

I have a tendency to get a little obsessed about getting something like this correct. So I spent most of the afternoon again trying to figure out why the pattern is drafting the way it is. The issue is this-- the side seam for the dress bodice is not hanging straight from under the arm down. Instead the underarm seam is more toward the back side and then about midway from underarm to waistline it straightens and hangs correctly. Below is a rough idea of what is happening. Imagine the lines as the side seam under the arm. There are fitting guides with the program but I am not finding this issue. I have also pulled out another fitting book, trying to figure this out. So if you have any ideas or opinions, please leave a comment.


As of now, I have decided to put this aside. I have a large number of dress patterns and decided to use a Vogue dress pattern that I made last year. I am going to use that to make the dress to go with the jacket I just completed. Time is moving on and I have more projects I want to tackle besides this dress.

Comments

  1. I have a really old versio of PMB. I know one little thing can throw things off. Could this be the software over-correcting for a FBA? Is there a button or something that you could play with there? (I'm thinking like the one on my old version for a protruding stomach or a big bottom.)

    Dana

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  2. Hi Linda, I am not familiar with PMB but to me it looks like you need more bodice front wide and less back wide from under the armpit towards the level where the side seams is hanging straight down again.

    The extra wide you add at the front pattern needs to be taken off from the back pattern.

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  3. Linda, try adjusting the dart uptake and the side seam movement. Send you chart to Karen @ Wild Ginger.

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