On the mend and sewing

Thanks to all the well wishers from my last post.  I am much better than I was last weekend.  I went to the doctor on Monday and got some nose drops and cough syrup; much improved.  Still have a nagging cough.  Doctor says this virus takes about three weeks to fully recover, heading into week 2.

I worked on Simplicity 1199 top yesterday evening and most all morning.  Let me say that this pattern runs large.  The first review I read on Pattern Review said there was a lot of ease with this pattern and the reviewer was not kidding.

I cut the pattern after doing some pin fitting of the pattern.  The problem with pin fitting for knits is that the fabric has stretch and the pattern does not; I did try to factor that in.  I also used the finished measurements for the bust and cut accordingly and did make a 1/2 inch FBA.

I made a forward should adjustment of 5/8 inches and swayback and adjustment for length of one inch.  That worked well.

I even raised the neckline about an inch in the center front.  Now that I made this top, I am going to raise the neckline both front and back by an inch as the top is falling off my shoulder using a Medium which is my normal size.  I will go back and use a small after making all the fitting adjustments on the current top.  I will still raise the neckline just for personal taste.

I like how the pattern is sew.  The sleeves look like set in sleeves but are more kimono style after you sew the side seams.  The front and back pieces are sewn at the shoulder first.  They then have you sew the neckband.  You then sew the side back and side front to the sleeve, you then sew the sleeve to the front and back pieces and then you finally sew the side seams.  It really goes together well.  I do suggest serging the edges of the fabric before stitching together because if you serge the seams the side seam has an opening near the bottom edge that is kept separate,

After sewing most everything together and then basting the side seams for fitting, I found out how large this top is.  I ended up taking a full once inch seam through the sleeve and side front/back pieces where attached to the front and back pieces.  The way this pattern is constructed this is an easy fitting place to adjust.  After doing that I took an addition 1/2 inch through the upper front piece.  I ended up taking a full inch seam allowance with the side seams and took even deeper seam at the under arm.

It fits better now and will soon take some photos after I hem everything.  With 20/20 hindsight I wish I had used the print pieces for the side pieces instead of the center front and back pieces.  The off white is not very slimming being used on the side as a darker color would be.  Even with all of these fitting adjustments, the neckline is still too low and too wide.

I am now gone back and trimmed the pattern to a small in the neck, shoulders and upper chest switch to medium throughout.  This may prove to still be large but my fitting adjustments for the next top will not be so much as this one.

Here is a pic of the top on the cutting table.

This view is of the front, front side and sleeve.

I forgot to mention that the neckband was too narrow and too fiddly to deal with so I used bias binding for the neckline.  It worked well.  Next time I will cut a wider neckband to hopefully make it easier to attach.

More later.  Hope your sewing weekend has gone well.