What size am I?

Now I remember why I purchased Pattern Master Boutique and why I might should reacquaint myself with it. I say this because Dang! if I know what skirt size pattern to use anymore. Skirts made earlier this year ranged in size from 14-18 depending on style.

Vogue patterns use to run small on me; so went with Size 16/18 for my current skirt project. I added to all pieces at the waist line due to finished pattern measurement and difference in mine. As I sewed each front and side front along with back and side back pieces, I sewed the same pieces for the lining fabric as well.

I then sewed the side seams of the lining to use it for any fitting adjustments. I thought when I looked at it that it looked a little large but I have surprised myself before and found the fit to be perfect or snug. Let me say this was huge! Thus I began the re-fitting process.

I took 3/4 inch side seams, this helped but still large. I then decided that the front pieces needed to be taken in as the back was looking okay. With a swayback and hip fluff below waist line in the back, my usual adjustments require me to add length at back hip to side seams and to reduce the center back by 1/2 inch. It looks odd but using FFRP techniques this is what I have been doing for years with great success. I thought if I took up the back seams I would have puckers. I ended up taking an extra 5/8" through the front/side front pieces. This did the trick.

I used flat pattern measuring for this skirt which is different for me, as I normally do pattern fitting per FFRP. Using the measuring method and relying on finished size printed on envelope, I added 1/4 inch to all seams at waist line, tapering to size 18 at hip. I also used the petite markings to reduce length from waist to hip. That worked well. I could have shortened the length more though; I will take an extra 1/2 inch at hem.

To conclude all that extra added at waist line proved to be unnecessary. I am glad that I erred on the side of having to take deeper seams, as I am most unhappy when things are too tight and don't have enough "wiggle" room to adjust seam allowances.

Let me add also that I have been going to CURVES rather faithfully for two years now. I have dropped a size in skirts and pants as a result. I really must incorporate this into my skirt sewing now. I have in the past made skirts that were just too ill fitting as they were too tight. I did not have this with PMB patterns as long as I kept the measurements current in that program.

I used an invisible zipper on this skirt. Of course, I sewed it incorrectly two times!!!! Third time was a charm. My hope that the skirt would be complete before returning to work tomorrow will not be. I needed to take a break from sewing as I needed to do some "work" at home before returning to work tomorrow for one day of work to be off again for one day. This will become my first completed project for 2008!