Yesterday was a very productive sewing day, not so much yet today. The dress is almost complete. I need to finish the neckline, hem the sleeves and dress--then done.
I am not one of those lucky sewist who made this dress without a lot of fitting and adjusting. I made 1.5 FBA and kept the dart. I trimmed the shoulder length by 3/8 using a technique from Sandra Betzina. I made my usual forward shoulder adjustment as well as 5/8 high round back adjustment.
I sewed the front and back shoulders together and then basted the side seams for fitting. I had a lot of pulling in the back waist area right above my hips. I have a narrow upper back area right above the waist line. My front has a little pouch. This always creates some fitting issues with dresses without darts.
To fix the pooling, I printed out a back bodice pattern using Pattern Master Boutique that had a vertical back dart. I laid the pattern piece over the back fabric and marked two darts aligning the center back of the pattern with the center dress back. This helped tremendously.
I then ended up taking deeper side seams (about an inch) from below the waist to the bottom of the dress. I am pleased with all of these adjustments and hope to share photos soon.