Sewing Progress

I began sewing the LH Tuxedo Jacket yesterday. The fabric is very ravely. I did not interface each piece, but I did serge finish all edges. For the sleeves I am interfacing the entire sleeve. I am not going to line because of the sleeve hem style. I am sure there is a way to line it but I am taking the easy way out and just interfacing with a softknit interfacing. One to make it a little easier to put arms in and out of the sleeve but also because of the ravely, woven fabric needs this stablizer for everyday wear and use.

I used the SNF lining method on this jacket. Using it on the front and back pieces. The pattern calls for 3/8 seam allowances. I did not trim the allowances to 1/4 and topstitch as we were taught in the recent SNF class on Pattern Review. I kept the 3/8 seams and not topstitching. The topstitching would get lost in the fibres of the this fabric. I also did not topstitch in case I have to make some fitting adjustments. I don't think that I will; I did pin fit the pattern and made adjustments prior to cuttting out the fabric and lining.

I basted the shoulder seams and tried jacket on. Seems to be fitting well. I need to reference the sewing instructions for sewing shoulders with SNF lining method. There is an appropriate time to do so but I think it is dependent on putting in permanent shoulder pads or removable ones. I know I can make a shoulder pad pocket for removable ones, this will be something new for me to try. Thus I have stopped sewing jacket until I review the instructions and make decisions regarding the shoulder pads.