Saturday, February 08, 2020

Up next

Moving on to my next projects.

I purchased this pattern, Butterick 6687 in 2019. I was drawn to the top the model is wearing and also like two other versions. The fabric I am using has been in my stash since 2016.

I purchased this when Fabric Mart had precut fabrics plus a pattern to go with it as a bundle.  I never made the dress pattern that came with it even though I had good intentions.  It was a McCall's pattern which I no longer have. This is 100% polyester so when it gets to be really hot, I doubt I will wear much especially with long sleeves.  I decided also that the next project would be a woven fabric and this was already in my sewing room.

I also have decided that once this is complete, I will tackle a pair of casual pants. I am going to use Simplicity 8389. I plan to sew View D, the orange pants. I am uncertain of the fabric I will use. They need to be somewhat drapey. I had thought about using the fabric above at first and knew that I would not be comfortable wearing pants with this type of print.

As you know I am not a pant sewing sewist.  I have made a few good attempts with more fitted styles.  My last pair was okay but I had made so many adjustments and failed to keep track of all them that I really could not replicate the changes with the pattern.  I decided if this does not work out then I will have a great pair of pj's.

More later!




Tuesday, February 04, 2020

Let me count the adjustments!

I finally finished the New Look 6314 top! I wore it yesterday. I liked the way the fabric felt and was comfortable to wear.  If you read my previous post(s) about this pattern then you know I made many fitting adjustments after making my test of this pattern.

So let's get started:

  1. 5/8 inches for a high round back adjustment 
  2. Swayback adjustment of 5/8 inches
  3. Forward shoulder adjustment of 5/8 inches
  4. Full bust adjustment of 1.5 inches
  5. Added 7/8 inches to front and back neckline. It was too wide for my comfort and aging neckline
  6. Shortened the shoulder at sleeve line by 5/8 inches 
  7. Took 3/8 inch tuck through the upper chest and back, to reduce length between underarms.
  8. Lowered dart by 7/8
All of this was made after pattern fitting and before cutting out the fabric. I thought about eliminating the resulting dart when making the FBA; I didn't until after sewing the dart.

The bust dart ended up being too low after sewing shoulder seams and basting the dart and side seams. I started to adjust the dart after kicking myself for not eliminating it in the first place. I decided not to do this and basted side seams again with easing the front side seams to the back.  This worked pretty well. You can see from this picture the fold that I ended up with but was okay with it at this point.

After this, I attached the sleeves but ended up taking a 7/8 inch seam as the sleeves are pretty full.
I attached the sleeve bands and the neckband next. I tried on the top and thought I would add the hem band.  After cutting out the band, I realized I had not adjusted that piece to account for the extra width created by the FBA. Instead of recutting another band, I decided to leave it off. I sewed a 5/8  inch hem and left off inserting a drawstring.

I realized when I made the test garment that I added a note to increase the length by one inch as I was not going to add the hem band. But I failed to add that length, finding that note to late.  It is a little short and somewhat boxy which I am okay with.

The neckband is still looser than I normally wear but I decided this was to be a slouchy, casual top. Here are a side view and a view of the back.



I am so glad to have finally finished this and I am okay with the outcome.  I still have a little of the knit leftover that I can use for another project.  I may make this again, but not anytime soon. I will eliminate that dart but I am darn tired of making more adjustments!

I am debating on my next project.  I have decided to make a list of some have to sew patterns and move forward with that.

August Sewing Simplicity 7295

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