Saturday, February 16, 2019

Ellie and Mac Undercover hoodie update


I finally took the time to take some photo shots of the hoodie in its current progress;  it is actually close to being finished. I fell in love with the look of this pattern months ago and my sewing plan was to complete it in January.  With the deadline looming for the Basically Jalie Blog Tour, the Jalie Mimosa pattern took a lot of my time.

This is a new to me pattern line and thus some trial and error with the fit for me. My measurements put me into the Large range.  With my experience with some other independent patterns, I decided to print the medium and large sizes.  I am glad I did as I basically ended up stitching more of a medium size than large.  This happens pretty much with other indies.

I made some adjustments to the pattern

  1. shortened bodice by 1 1/2 inches
  2. swayback adjustment of 1/2 inch
  3. forward shoulder adjustment of 5/8 inch
  4. FBA of 3/4 inch
During the basting and fitting stages, I had to make numerous adjustments some I should have made originally. I should have taken a horizontal tuck in the upper chest and back to raise the underarms.  By not doing this I ended up using 5/8 inch seam allowance for the shoulders instead of the 1/4 inch the pattern instructions call for.  I really did not need the FBA removing 1 inch from the bust down for front and front overlay.  I also reduced the back side seams by 1/2 inch which did put me into the medium size.  I had to reduce the sleeve shoulders by 3/8 inch due to the deeper shoulder seams I took. I also reduced the shoulder width again putting me into the medium/small size.  I have to do this with most patterns whether indie or big 4.

I attached the lined hoodie and sleeves a little earlier and before sewing up side seams, I decided that the length was still too long on my 5'3" frame so I cut off another inch.  I have only to decide whether to use the waistband option or insert drawstring and then sew side seams and complete the bottom portion.

Here is how it is looking now:

Pocket created with a front overlay
Hand fits nicely in the pocket
Lined hoodie









Front and front overlay with piping along the edge
Sleeve attached.


Back view of the attached hoodie

Even with fitting adjustments, I find this pattern to be well drafted and instructions along with illustrations were well written.  The hoodie can be made to be loose or more fitted depending on your preference and fabric.  I wanted mine to be more fitted thus the medium size works well for that.

I have signed up to be an affiliate for Ellie and Mac as I am impressed with her designs and admittedly their prices are very reasonable.  Their no trim pattern printing was so easy to put together. Being an affiliate, should you click on the Ellie and Mac logo under affiliates on my blog, it is possible I could receive a commission.  Just want to be upfront about that.

Hope to show and wear the complete garment soon.  Thanks for stopping by.

















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