My after 4th PSD

I am working on McCalls 5329. Believe you me, when I say working on it, I am fitting and refitting the pattern. I have made numerous pattern adjustments. I am going to have to make more than one of this jacket to justify all the time spent adjusting the pattern.

I read reviews at Pattern Review for this pattern. Everyone loves the jacket and several noted it was very low cut and will wear it with a cami or some top underneath. It is definitely low on me and I decided to redraft the neckline and raised it about 3/4 of an inch. I still may find it low but before it was so low that standing straight left nothing to one's imagination and if I bent over, well you get the picture!

I cut a 14 through shoulder tapering to 16 at bust. The 14 shoulder is very wide on me so will trim that down some. The 16 was to small in bust area, perhaps could have cut an 18, so did a FBA three times! First-used Pivot and Slide. Not a good adjustment for me. Second- used Palmer/Pletsch FBA method. I just did not adjust enough, so redid that and added another 5/8 inch. It fits now! The low cut neckline is going to have some gaps, so I took a tuck from neckline tapering to nothing at arm. Now I need to adjust the lapel and facing pieces to make this work also. I also did my forward shoulder adjustment and ended up making two sway back adjustments as well.

I had hoped to cut out another pattern and make those adjustments as well. Probably will not happen today. I have a ASG board meeting this evening and being the treasurer, I need to finish my treasurer's report. So will have to put pattern cutting, fitting, etc. aside until later.


  1. Doesn't that just make you crazy? I just finished a SIMPLE sleeveless collar, no buttons, not even facings! But I had an awful time getting it to fit right. The neckline was too loose, so I finally ended up adding two small darts at the neckline--ha! a new design feature!

  2. Linda, what a total coincidence! I have this same pattern laying out and I'm about to pull out my hair over the adjustments too! I was quite surprised that no one who has reviewed this jacket stated that they did a FBA. What is the Palmer/Pletsch method? I have the book, "Jackets for Real People" and I've been looking at the full bust adjustments in there... I wonder if it's the same one that you're using? I cut out the size 14 and I need to adjust for a D cup.

  3. Lovely jacket. Pity you have to make so many adjustments. I have the same question as Erica b: what is the Palmer/Pletsch method? I'm rather new to doing FBA's and have used the pivot/slide method from Nancy Zieman and Sandra Betzina's method from Fast Fit, but still looking for the best way to do it.


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