Tuesday, February 04, 2020

Let me count the adjustments!

I finally finished the New Look 6314 top! I wore it yesterday. I liked the way the fabric felt and was comfortable to wear.  If you read my previous post(s) about this pattern then you know I made many fitting adjustments after making my test of this pattern.

So let's get started:

  1. 5/8 inches for a high round back adjustment 
  2. Swayback adjustment of 5/8 inches
  3. Forward shoulder adjustment of 5/8 inches
  4. Full bust adjustment of 1.5 inches
  5. Added 7/8 inches to front and back neckline. It was too wide for my comfort and aging neckline
  6. Shortened the shoulder at sleeve line by 5/8 inches 
  7. Took 3/8 inch tuck through the upper chest and back, to reduce length between underarms.
  8. Lowered dart by 7/8
All of this was made after pattern fitting and before cutting out the fabric. I thought about eliminating the resulting dart when making the FBA; I didn't until after sewing the dart.

The bust dart ended up being too low after sewing shoulder seams and basting the dart and side seams. I started to adjust the dart after kicking myself for not eliminating it in the first place. I decided not to do this and basted side seams again with easing the front side seams to the back.  This worked pretty well. You can see from this picture the fold that I ended up with but was okay with it at this point.

After this, I attached the sleeves but ended up taking a 7/8 inch seam as the sleeves are pretty full.
I attached the sleeve bands and the neckband next. I tried on the top and thought I would add the hem band.  After cutting out the band, I realized I had not adjusted that piece to account for the extra width created by the FBA. Instead of recutting another band, I decided to leave it off. I sewed a 5/8  inch hem and left off inserting a drawstring.

I realized when I made the test garment that I added a note to increase the length by one inch as I was not going to add the hem band. But I failed to add that length, finding that note to late.  It is a little short and somewhat boxy which I am okay with.

The neckband is still looser than I normally wear but I decided this was to be a slouchy, casual top. Here are a side view and a view of the back.



I am so glad to have finally finished this and I am okay with the outcome.  I still have a little of the knit leftover that I can use for another project.  I may make this again, but not anytime soon. I will eliminate that dart but I am darn tired of making more adjustments!

I am debating on my next project.  I have decided to make a list of some have to sew patterns and move forward with that.

12 comments:

  1. Are we twins? Those are almost the exact fitting adjustment I always have to make too! You did great work and I like your top. Keep sewing!

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  2. I too make many of the same changes to every garment I sew. Sigh! Your top looks very nice. The fabric is really interesting, and the color looks great on you

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    Replies
    1. Thanks Audrey! The fabric feels great and was easy to sew!

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  3. I think you'll have fun wearing this top.

    I have numerous adjustments to make, also. And, I totally agree that it becomes tiresome. Out of desperation, a couple of years ago, I finally made myself perfect some bodice* blocks (knit and woven) and pretty much exclusively use them - applying the design lines of the pattern to the block. WAY less adjustments! Perfecting blocks is worth the work, IMO.

    *Actually, out of even more desperation, I worked out knit and woven pants blocks, too. Would you believe it took me 15 muslins for the woven block? True! Luckily I had a lot of old sheets to use up!

    Thanks for posting. I enjoy reading about your sewing journey.

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    Replies
    1. Thank you for stopping by and commenting. I once used a pattern drafting program and got a pretty decent bodice block. I have many body changes since then and probably should try making a block again. Good suggestion.

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  4. It turned out so well and that distressed knit is pretty awesome.

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    Replies
    1. Thank you! I still have a little left over and may be able to use for another project.

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  5. Way to hang in there and make changes that work! I like the top, and love the distressed knit eben more! I saw Boho Fabrics had some. If I had not just ordered I would have bought some!

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    Replies
    1. Thanks Vanessa! Boho Fabrics is a source I am not familiar with and will check them out!

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  6. Thank you so much for sharing your sewing adventures in your blog.

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