Saturday, October 10, 2015

Test Garment

I have been away since Wednesday attending a business conference in Greensboro, North Carolina. Returning yesterday after unpacking I decided to spend a little time in my sewing room. I basted the side seams for the Presto Popover Top. That was the last step in the process to determine the fit.

I took some photos and made some notes on the fitting areas for the neckline. I used a medium size for the neck and shoulders and upper chest. I then blended to a large about an inch from the underarm to the bottom of the top. An earlier post I showed you the full bust adjustment I made. The issue is the back collar. There seems to be just too much fabric for the back neckline for me. Or perhaps the center neckline seam needs to be taken up. Perhaps I need to trace the small for the neckline and use the medium for the shoulder and upper chest.

One of the fitting issues in sewing the test garment, I had to re-do the back attachment to the front piece and in doing so I ended up cutting about 3/8 of the yoke seam which I knew would impact some of the fit. This is also a very thin burnout knit and most likely the recovery in re-stitching the front to the back twice impacted the look of the neckline in the front as well as the back.


I really appreciate and want your constructive feedback about what you see from the pictures below. Are you seeing what I'm describing or something else? Let me also say I made a forward shoulder adjustment which may not be appropriate for this pattern. I can see from the photos as well as in person that the shoulder area moves forward. Again I'm not sure that this is an appropriate adjustment for this pattern. I've looked at several reviews of this pattern on Pattern Review and it's hard to tell where the back yoke needs to fall.

Thanks again for reviewing and your feedback.



5 comments:

  1. Gosh, what a project! and all the reviews on PR say how easy this is... Actually, looking at them and at the pattern, I've been a bit wary of that back neckline, it has so much ruche in it.

    Any-hoo, looking at your muslin, your shoulder seam looks to be a bit too far to the back - which would add to the issues with both the back and front neckline. Maybe doing it without the forward shoulder adjustment would help, i.e., let the shoulder seam come forward, which would relieve some of the bunching at the back and also release the tension issue on the front neckline (are you using an elastic stitch? the bias on the v-neck could easily stretch out with a straight stitch. Just a thought).

    Another thought - perhaps the neckline is also too high in the back for your neck. Is it possible to lower it in some way?

    Hope this is helpful...burnout knit is so fragile, I imagine it's making you a little nutsy to have to redo this muslin. I hope you're sewing this with black thread so you can see it to rip it! Coco

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    1. Thank you very much for your feedback. I think the neckline is to high in the back and some of that is because of taking out 3/8 inch when removing stitches. I decided not to make the forward shoulder adjustment on the next top. I am even considering cutting that center back collar seam between medium and small reducing I think some of the height of the collar making it less ruched. Going to try the next version of this now.

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    2. Looks like a cute top, love the color! But sorry you are having issues with it :-( I just made the Hot Patterns La Strada Tee, similar style lines, but it doesn't have long sleeves. Perfect fit, quick and easy!

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  2. This post reminds me of your top, maybe she has some ideas to help you:
    https://themateriallady.wordpress.com/tag/presto-popover-top/

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    Replies
    1. Thanks for the link, which led me to several other versions. Many individuals seem to turn the collar back and have it looks somewhat like a small shawl collar. I completed a second version today and will take photos tomorrow. This version looks much better.

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