Tuesday, August 19, 2014

Tribeca Top in the Works

I normally do not sew a muslin. Most of the time I use a pin and fit method as described in the book "Fit for Real People". Perhaps instinct kicked in for this particular top and I decided to test the fit using similar knit fabric that I want to use when making the real garment. I am glad I decided to do that.

I used a knit that has been in my stash for awhile and was left over from another project that did not go so well. I traced the sizes I used for the Penny Pinafore dress pattern. I then cut out the test knit fabric and quickly serged the top. There were a few fitting concerns.

1. The sleeves were too long for a cap sleeve on me; I failed to shorten the sleeve in the shoulder area. I pinned that out on the test garment  and made the fit better.
2. I took a horizontal tuck in the upper chest and upper back to go with the shortened sleeve.
3. I made my usual sway back adjustment with the pattern before cutting out the fabric and found I still needed to take out another 3/8 of an inch in the back area above the waist.
4. The bust area was a little snug and decided to make a FBA of 1 inch.
5. I also made an adjustment at the hip using a fitting adjustment from a Craftsy video produced by Lynda Maynard. This was about an inch adjustment.

After making these adjustments on the pattern pieces, I had enough fabric left to cut out a new bodice front and back. I cut the sleeves from another solid knit fabric. The neckband that I cut previously will still work with this test Tribeca Top. Hopefully I can test the fit of that tomorrow.

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