Monday, June 30, 2008

Jalie 2794

This is my second attempt at a Jalie pattern. I am basically pleased with the outcome. I truly was making this as a test garment as I am/was uncertain what size to use with this company's patterns. My first attempt with another Jalie pattern was not positive, but I take full responsibility for the poor outcome for that one.


Reading several reviews at PR for Jalie patterns, I decided to use a size Y through the shoulder and upper chest increasing to AA for the bust, waist and hips. I was concerned about the depth of the neckline and still think I might raise this a little with the next try. I decided to do a FBA and then eliminate the resulting dart and adjust through the side seams by taking up the extra added. I reduced the front pattern from the waist down taking out the extra with the pattern, then I cut out the fabric.


I used leftover knit fabric I purchased from Gorgeous Fabrics about a year ago. I made a dress from this fabric initially. I had enough fabric left over to cut out all of the pieces except for the neckband which I cut from a solid black knit crepe fabric.


The neck, upper chest and bust fit well so I am pleased with that result but there is definitely something not good going on with the lower back and side seams. I took photos of this to show and to get feedback from you as to what the issues are. I will share my idea but I truly appreciate constructive feedback. I did not hem the sleeves or the top at this time. I will do so as I think I will wear the top tucked into pants or jeans so that the fitting issue at the back and hip will be somewhat disguised. Just too nice of material to let it go unused.


Front view of the top. I truly like the neckline shape. It fits well through the shoulders, arms, and chest/bust. I think this top is too long though. My hip depth is 4.5 to 5 inches. I think this should stop right above or right at the hip line.


The fitting issues are in the back and the side seams. I hope that you can see the wrinkles as it was hard to see with this busy pattern, but I tried to contrast the photos and added arrows to point out the wrinkles.



I did a swayback adjustment but not sure it was deep enough. It looks to me to be too much fabric in the center of the back area. I pinned something like a fisheye dart in this area and it seem to help with the fit. I did not take a photo of that though.





Here is another shot that shows diagonal wrinkles coming from the back to the side seam.

I did not undo the side seams but my guess is that if I did I would find that I need to have more width at the back side seams. I think this indicates that the fabric is pulling across my hip fluff. Again because of the tops length it can only pull through this area. The seam allowance is only 1/4 inch so there is not any thing I can really let out.

I appreciate your thoughts and comments on this. All is appreciated and welcome.

3 comments:

  1. I didn't quite follow what you did to the front sideseam and length, but the back looks too long between shoulder and waist. It looks like there's enough room to span the hips, but it's just in the wrong place. Have you tried pinning a horizontal tuck across your upper back?

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  2. I also love the neckline. Cute! I agree that a shorter length would be more flattering.

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  3. I have no comments on how to fix it...just wanted to ask...have you lost weight? You are looking thin, girlfriend!

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