Monday, June 30, 2008

Jalie 2794

This is my second attempt at a Jalie pattern. I am basically pleased with the outcome. I truly was making this as a test garment as I am/was uncertain what size to use with this company's patterns. My first attempt with another Jalie pattern was not positive, but I take full responsibility for the poor outcome for that one.


Reading several reviews at PR for Jalie patterns, I decided to use a size Y through the shoulder and upper chest increasing to AA for the bust, waist and hips. I was concerned about the depth of the neckline and still think I might raise this a little with the next try. I decided to do a FBA and then eliminate the resulting dart and adjust through the side seams by taking up the extra added. I reduced the front pattern from the waist down taking out the extra with the pattern, then I cut out the fabric.


I used leftover knit fabric I purchased from Gorgeous Fabrics about a year ago. I made a dress from this fabric initially. I had enough fabric left over to cut out all of the pieces except for the neckband which I cut from a solid black knit crepe fabric.


The neck, upper chest and bust fit well so I am pleased with that result but there is definitely something not good going on with the lower back and side seams. I took photos of this to show and to get feedback from you as to what the issues are. I will share my idea but I truly appreciate constructive feedback. I did not hem the sleeves or the top at this time. I will do so as I think I will wear the top tucked into pants or jeans so that the fitting issue at the back and hip will be somewhat disguised. Just too nice of material to let it go unused.


Front view of the top. I truly like the neckline shape. It fits well through the shoulders, arms, and chest/bust. I think this top is too long though. My hip depth is 4.5 to 5 inches. I think this should stop right above or right at the hip line.


The fitting issues are in the back and the side seams. I hope that you can see the wrinkles as it was hard to see with this busy pattern, but I tried to contrast the photos and added arrows to point out the wrinkles.



I did a swayback adjustment but not sure it was deep enough. It looks to me to be too much fabric in the center of the back area. I pinned something like a fisheye dart in this area and it seem to help with the fit. I did not take a photo of that though.





Here is another shot that shows diagonal wrinkles coming from the back to the side seam.

I did not undo the side seams but my guess is that if I did I would find that I need to have more width at the back side seams. I think this indicates that the fabric is pulling across my hip fluff. Again because of the tops length it can only pull through this area. The seam allowance is only 1/4 inch so there is not any thing I can really let out.

I appreciate your thoughts and comments on this. All is appreciated and welcome.

Kwik Sew 3497

As planned, I sewed two knit tops this weekend. One was Kwik Sew 3497 View C and the other was Jalie 2794.

The Kwik Sew went together quickly with only a few fitting adjustments along the way. I think they were due more to the knit fabric I used instead of the pattern fit. I plan to make another tank top or two from this pattern so we will see.

I purchased some fabric in August/September of last year from Mary Jo's in Gastonia, NC. I made this Simplicity top. The first fabric in this post is what I used to make the Simplicity top. I had about 3/4 yard left over so I decided to use that fabric to make the tank top. However, I decided I liked the other side of the fabric better so this became this tank.


Adjustments I made to the pattern were swayback, forward shoulder and I added 1/2 inch to the bust using the slash and spread method. I cut a medium through the shoulder and upper chest. I also took a 1/4 inch tuck in upper chest area for the front and did the same for the back. The additional 1/2 inch for bust adjustment proved not to be necessary. I ended up taking 5/8 seam allowance from under the arm to waist, then tapering to 1/4 seam allowance as pattern called for. I also ended up taking 3/4 seam in the shoulders. I think the weight of this slinky knit pulled the fabric down. I will watch for this on the next top as this will be from a more stable knit.


Here is another shot of me wearing the tank top.























Merry Wheel

I first saw this Merry Wheel on Cidell's blog Miss Celie Pants. We exchanged an email about it and I saw the "pink one" that someone else had. I have had a search for this on eBay ever since. I recently got a response that a seller had one to sell. I immediately jumped on it. I was bidding against one other buyer and I won!!!!

Now there are two more of these spool holders on eBay. Go figure!
I was concerned about getting this as I noted in a previous post. But the item came on Saturday and I won the bid on Wednesday. So quick delivery!




Friday, June 27, 2008

Back from DC and no fabric purchases

My business trip to DC was a good one and I accomplished the business tasks that I needed to. I spent time meeting with House Reps staff and actually got to meet with Rep. Goodlatte with a staff member. Truly was a nice experience. I met with both Senators' staff. I walked and walked and walked some more. I wore business yet comfortable shoes. Unfortunately I suffered from shin splints that evening and all day Thursday and today. Gosh, that is painful and I know of no real remedy for this.

I looked up G Street in Centerville and was hoping to schedule a side trip to that location. But I was all work and no play most of my time there. I stayed at the Willard Hotel, very historical place. I also saw a motorcade with I am assuming the President or Vice President traveling to the White House. If not one of them, it was very top security travel for someone. You certainly don't see that here in Roanoke. The hotel had lots of Secret Service folks in it all Tuesday evening and part of Wednesday AM. There were protesters outside the hotel Tuesday evening with a camera crew taping the protest. The Capitol Police brought in K-9's and had them running throughout parts of the hotel lobby and banquet rooms. I was told at my 7:00 AM breakfast meeting that the President of Iraq was in the hotel. Someone of some high caliber was definitely there. I found it all rather intriguing. I love to sit in hotel lobbies and watch people. I have to admit this was the most interesting lobby watching I have done.

I did win an auction on eBay while away and will share my new treasure with you when it arrives. I am a tad concerned as I have not heard from the seller since I sent my payment!!!!
I have not had a bad experience with eBay before so hope that this is not going to be the one to break my good fortune.

I hope to get some sewing in this weekend. I have several knit tops ready to sew. I also have been thinking about the Great Coat Sew Along and unfortunately I have not done anything about it except buy the pattern, fabric and sampler items. I also have some more summer sewing I want to do and as usual have limited time right now. However, I do have some vaca days coming up and since I am not really going anywhere but need to use the time or loose it, I plan to put in some sewing time as well do some spring cleaning or I suppose I should call it summer cleaning.

Tuesday, June 24, 2008

Traveling

I leave for DC this AM. I spent most of Monday evening packing and then putting the rest together this morning. I always pack sewing magazines and fiction books to take to help me get to sleep or when I get some down time. I can do this when I am driving not flying. I have not flown in over a year or two. I truly hate it these days. I was never a good flyer in the first place; now I am clueless as to what one can and cannot carry on a plane. My last few times I did fly, I was pulled to have my luggage opened and items viewed. It is simply a hassle, yet I am one to admit I want to feel secure when flying.

So since I will not be able to go into my sewing room, fondle fabric, pick up a pattern or do any of the things one normally does when going into their sewing sanctum; I will have sewing mags with me. I will access the Internet and such in between meetings on the hill and training sessions. I always want to feel like I am at home though away.

I am hoping to squeeze a side trip to G Street. I am staying on Pennsylvania Avenue so will have to determine where I am compared to G Street in Rockville. Those little GPS units do come in handy if one finds time. I have to admit my last trip to DC using a GPS unit, I found myself lost and in DC at 12th &D and I was suppose to be in Arlington. Go figure!!!

Sunday, June 22, 2008

Sewing journey for today

I still need to hem my dress. Just wasn't in the mood to complete that task.


I wanted to get a start on making some knit tops. I pin fitted three knit tops yesterday evening and finished today. They are all three patterns I have not made before. The Marcy Tilton Vogue top were adjusted for shoulder width and making a little more petite able in the upper chest area. The pattern pieces are very unusual shape and required single fabric layout for cutting. I used a coral jersey purchased earlier this year from Gorgeous Fabrics.


I then cut out the Jalie 2794 pattern and decided to make a FBA. I have only sewn on Jalie pattern and was not real happy for the outcome. I really am not sure if they run small or large or close to size. I used a size Y through the neckline and shoulder area, enlarging to AA for the bust/waist/hip areas. I decided to use a knit remnant, again fabric I purchased last year from Gorgeous Fabrics. I made a dress for this knit previously and had enough left over to cut out for this top. If this proves to be the correct size, I will make another using a black/yellow/gray/white geometric print knit I acquired from EOS last year. I have been waiting for the right pattern to call out for this fabric.


I then traced a tank top from another KS pattern I have had for awhile. I could have used the pattern that I just recently made but thought I wanted to see how this pattern is running in size. This newer pattern has two other tank top front views that I want to try also.


This will probably conclude my sewing related activities this week as I will be traveling to DC again this week. Tomorrow after work I will spend time packing so probably will not get much done in the way of sewing tomorrow. I leave Tuesday, mid morning, driving to DC where I will be Tuesday night, Wednesday and leaving late Thursday returning home.


Here is a photo of the Marcy Tilton Vogue knit top pattern laid out on the fabric. You can see the unusual pattern piece shape.





I want this vintage pattern

I have fallen in love with a Simplicity vintage pattern #2959; click the blog title for a link to the dresses that are posted on Sewing in the City's blog site. She has made this dress several times. I have been searching and searching for this pattern. I still continue my search. I truly like the dresses she has made from this pattern.

If you are reading this and you come across this vintage pattern please drop a comment here or check my blog profile for email.

Friday, June 20, 2008

Ready to cut!

I still need to hem the dress! Meanwhile I pulled out some knit fabrics that I have been wanting to make up into tops and/or dresses. I also decided on the patterns I am going to use.



Jalie 2806

Jalie 2794

Vogue 8497

Fabrics are some that have been in collection for awhile and some are fairly new purchases-new in that they were purchased in 2008.

I also want to make some blouses. I have some nice patterns that I pulled out and I want to use up some of the fabric in my collection.

Having said that, I did buy some fabric from Fashionista Fabrics. It is a lovely pale yellow background with lilac flowers. I have eyed this fabric for sometime now and decided it was time to buy.

Wednesday, June 18, 2008

Recent purchases

I found a new shop recently, or at least new to me. It is in Wytheville, VA and they mainly sell batiks-rayon, cotton, corduroy as well as silk. They are also a Pfaff dealer. They are housed in an older home that has two floors of fabrics and classrooms. They are called Sew What Fabrics and Batiks.



I have this off and on like of rayon batiks. Not so crazy over the cotton ones simply because I see them more quilts or purses. Since I sew mostly garments, the rayons appeal to me. Having said that, I fell in love with some of the rayons I saw while there. Partly the appeal may have been they were on sale as well.

I have a vision of a blouse-camp shirt or similar style with contrasting collar or sleeve or an added sleeve band. Here are some photos of my newly acquired fabric:






Tuesday, June 17, 2008

purchasedt with rose &butterfly

I haven't embroidered much in a long time. I embroidered a few Christmas items and nothing since. I purchased this T at WalMart with the intent of embroiderying something on it.

I took a rosebud and added a butterfly combining the design with my 4D Embroidery software. I then embroidered two small rosebuds that are designs included on my machine.

I enjoyed doing this. Needed a break from sewing my dress when I did this. Now the dress is complete. I want to add one more embroidered rose perhaps at the bottom area of this T.

My next sewing project is to sew up some knit tops and a few blouses.

Sunday, June 15, 2008

V8319 lapped zipper


V8319 lapped zipper
Originally uploaded by Danvillegirl

I used a lapped zipper method for the back zipper. I really like how it turned out.

V8319 wth Simplicity jacket

Here is a shot of the dress with the jacket. The colors in this photo are off. The dress is more of a seafoam green, this is looking more teal.

V8319 Dress Finally Complete


V8319
Originally uploaded by Danvillegirl
I am so happy to report that this dress is finally complete except for the hem. This has truly been a sewing excursion with this pattern. The dress is a good fit and need to get it pressed after hemmed so I can wear it soon.

Thursday, June 12, 2008

From the Chocolate Oracle

What Your Taste in Chocolate Says About You
You are sophisticated, modern, and high class.
Your taste is refined, but you are not picky.
You are often the first to try something new.

You are a whimsical person prone to daydreaming.
Artistic and creative, you're always in the middle of a project.
While you are an inspiration to others, you can come off as flaky.

You love to be the center of attention. You enjoy entertaining your friends.
You feel lost when no one is interested in you... You're too interesting to be ignored.
http://www.blogthings.com/thechocolateoracle/">The Chocolate Oracle

Wednesday, June 11, 2008

Trials and Tribulations-Conclusion

Stopping to work on the project and take a shower, helped to clear my mind. Giving some thought to what could be wrong; I decided I must have cut the front piece using the wrong center fold line. This pattern has several optional center front fold lines. Not seen this before on other patterns. If this was the case I did not have enough lining fabric to cut out another front piece. My thoughts continued along the lines, of how can I save this?

My idea was to measure how much I was off in matching from shoulder seam to center front to other shoulder seam. Once this was determined I decided I would cut the front lining piece on the center front and insert a piece of fabric that would expand the width so seam lines at neckline would match up. I did not act on this on Sunday afternoon as I actually fell sick later from either a stomach virus or food poisoning.

The next morning, feeling somewhat better, I proceeded slowly to get dress. In this process, I decided to baste the back and side seams of the dress fabric to see how this was fitting since I was working off of the fit of the lining unit. When I put on the dress, I was totally surprised that the front neckline on the dress was gaping seriously. It looked like I had a modified cowl neckline. That is not the style of this dress. I again was flummoxed by this fitting issue. The armholes were rather tight, which was not an issue with the lining unit.

I removed the dress and held the neckline up to the neckline of the lining unit. Now, dear reader as Stephen King writes, do you have any idea what the problem could be with this? The light bulb clicked on for me and mystery solved!!! Remember in my previous post, if you read it all that I noted the yoke pattern pieces were not clearly marked as to the shoulder and armholes on the yoke pieces? Once I saw how wide the neckline looked and how tight the fit was at the underarms, I realized I had sewn the yoke pieces to the front piece totally incorrect. The neckline was really the armhole curve and shoulder line was the armholes. That evening I removed the yoke pieces and re-stitched correctly.

Yes, the dress and the lining now match up at the neckline. The armholes now match and I can now proceed with sewing the units together and getting the dress finished.

I feel a little stupid at doing this. I mean I have been sewing since junior high. Sometimes I am what I call a concrete thinker; i.e., don't leave out any steps assuming that you will just "know" what to include between steps. I did not really read through the instructions again with this dress as I had made it before. Have you ever done anything like this? I am still wondering where I lost my brain during this process. I do feel better that I did not waste my fabric and that I will get a new dress to wear with my new jacket.

THE END AND ALL LIVED HAPPILY EVER AFTER!

Tuesday, June 10, 2008

Sewing Trials and Tribulations-Part 1

I began working on the Vogue dress two weekends ago. This recent past weekend, I spent over 5 hours on this dress. For a pattern that I made before, I have had a hard time with this one. My difficulty with it is that I have made more sewing mistakes than I probably should admit here. But since this is a sewing diary, I thought I would write about my trials and tribulations with what should be an easy dress to make.

Marking the darts on the dress fabric the previous weekend proved to be a difficult task due to the weight and slippery fabric. I did accomplish it but was time consuming. The lining fabric was easier to do. Since the dress has a lining, I feel like I am making two dresses. As I sewed the darts in the dress unit I did so with the lining unit.


The dress has front and back small yoke pieces; you cut four fronts and four backs using them for the dress and lining. These yoke pieces were the biggest issue for me with this dress. I also did not make notes on how these pieces fit from my previous sewing of this dress and unfortunately I did not look at the instructions/drawings when I began to sew these yokes onto the front and back bodice pieces. The yoke pieces also do not have any notations as to shoulder or arm edges. I sewed the back yokes to the back lining pieces first. To my dismay they did not go all the way from neckline to side seam. I thought I could not have cut them out in the wrong size. I then thought perhaps I am to ease the back bodice to the yoke. This was not so as there was no way that anyone could ease that amount of difference together, though I will admit I did try this. I pulled out the pattern pieces to make sure that I had not cut incorrectly. I didn't. Thus I decided I needed to read the instructions; nothing there to indicate that the yokes fit only between neckline and end just past the dart. However upon closer inspection of the drawings it was apparent that they did just end right past the dart. Upon realizing that, I completed sewing the yokes to front and back bodice pieces for the lining unit as well as the dress unit.


Using a tip from Pattern Review, which is, to make the lining first so you can make fitting adjustments to it before tackling the garment. I found this to be a good tip to use. I sewed the front and back shoulders together for the lining. I then basted the side and back seams for fitting the dress. The bust area was a little snug but to loose in the upper chest part. So I took a deeper seam in the upper dart and reduced the rest of the dart at the full bust area stopping just below the bust and right above waist area. I also used 3/8 seam allowance under the arm through the bust area, increasing to 5/8 from waist to hemline. This worked well. Of note, when I made this dress previously I did a FBA and I also increased the back width. With that dress increasing the back width was a mistake and thus after making that dress, I removed all of the back width adjustment I had added to the back pattern piece. Thus this dress was a little snugger because of that and the fabric is different also, more clingy. Now with all these adjustments, I had a nice fitting lining. I then actually sewed the bust basted adjustments noted above and then removed the side and back seam basting, noting what seam allowances I needed to sew when I was ready to sew the side and back seams.


I then replicated the same bust adjustments to the dress fabric. I then proceeded to attach the dress unit to the lining unit at the neckline and was going to do the same at the armholes as I like this technique for lining a sleeveless dress. When I got ready to pin the necklines together they did not fit. The dress unit's neckline was much bigger than the lining. I was just dumbfounded and flummoxed! I expressed a few explicatives. I decided I needed to walk away from this at that point. I kept thinking how I had spent a considerable amount of time with this dress so far, I had to redo the sewing of the yokes and spent considerable time fitting the darn thing. I decided to take a shower and call it quits for the day. I even vowed to take up quilting and to do more embroidering with my machine than garment sewing. But the final thing I did was take a photo of my dress. Here are two views:



Stay tuned for part two.

Monday, June 09, 2008

Coat Fabric Arrived

I am participating in the GCSA-Great Coat Sew Along. I purchased my coat fabric as I only had plaid coat fabric in my stash and just did not want to tackle matching plaids, etc. for this sew along. My fabric arrived last Thursday and it is gorgeous! But then it should be as I purchased it from Gorgeous Fabrics. It is a royal blue flannel coating and the royal blue was what I had in mind when ordering. As you know sometimes the monitor colors and the real color can be off some or a lot.

We have had a heat wave in our area with temps as high 100 degrees. When I took my coat fabric out of the box, I kept thinking this is like a wool blanket. Not a bad thing when it is cold outside.

Thursday, June 05, 2008

Sewing going here-NOT!

Work is once again consuming my time. Today I travel to Richmond with my boss and another co-worker. Meetings begin at 5 PM with a "working dinner buffet". Feels like indigestion to me!
We plan to shut down for the evening around 9:00 PM after having worked at least four hours prior to driving to Richmond. Last night and this AM has been devoted to packing.

I will return home tomorrow evening so will hopefully get some sewing time in to complete the dress I started. I have numerous thoughts on what to sew up next. Trying to find that balance between work, family and sewing.

Later.

Sunday, June 01, 2008

PMB Feedback

Thanks to Dana, Towanda and Els for their comments regarding the pattern draft. Towanda, I will send my measurements to Karen at Wild Ginger. I think that the dart uptake and side arm point are options I should try. I read more in the User's Guide. The bra cup size I think is also affecting the draft as I read the guide.

V8319

I made progress now that I decided on the dress to make. I made Vogue 8319 previously. Now that I have the fit issues taken care of this should go together fairly quickly. The fabric I am using for this dress is a little softer and less body than the fabric I used for the previous version.

The lining I am using is not quite the same color as the dress, more blue than green. It does go well with the jacket. I think it will work out okay. This is one of three lining fabrics I purchased from Trendy Fabrics several months ago. Their price was fantastic and the lining is a good quality.

I had some issues marking the dart lines on the front and back piece. The dart shape is unusual and the fabric kept moving on me. I took my time and got them marked on the fabric as well as the lining fabric.

I decided to serge finish the edges of the dress and lining fabric as both tend to ravel very easily.
Darts are sewn in the front dress fabric and lining. If I had not spent so much time on the PMB dress draft, this could be finished. Other house chores needed my attention so stopped sewing for the moment.

August Sewing Simplicity 7295

 I am not doing well as a blogger. I have been working on this project since July 30. Today, I finally finished it. It has been a stop-and-g...